Oct 25: Drove up on Sunday as too knackered to drive on Saturday. Left home at 9.30, crossed border at 4.15, and I arrived at Boat of Garten at 9.00 pm.
Oct 26: Left Glenmore Lodge at 9.25, then took the Lairig an Laoigh towards the Ford of Avon. After dropping towards Glasath, I met 2 people pushing bikes coming from the opposite direction. Told them I thought they were mad, decided not to tell them I had huge difficulty crossing the last stream, and that they were going very wet feet. Serve them right. Carried onto the Fords of Avon Refuge which I reached at 1.30, and had lunch there (outside) as it was so dark inside as usual, boulders on every wall blocked all the light. It was in good condition, with a foam mat on the floor, 2 books, matches, and some rubbish which I removed. There was huge amount of water in the streams-the Avon was quite impossible to cross at the Ford or at the outflow of the loch. After lunch I headed up towards the Saddle, then headed down Strath Nethy, which was very rough and quite slow going. I reached the junction of the path to Ryvoan at about 5.30, stopped for food and put on the head torch, back to Glenmore Lodge at 6.20.
Oct 27: Drove towards Dorback Lodge, with the intention of climbing Geal Charn. I parked at Balintium, who had very considerately provided a parking space, then headed for the Dorback Burn which I crossed with great difficulty. Soon I heard voices on the path ahead, and got rather concerned that I was about to be shot by a deerstalking party - fortunately, it was a group of estate workers doing some maintenance work. I then skirted Eag Mor, then followed the track South East to its end. Then crossed some incredibly rough ground - heather, peat hags, ascended the summit from the SW, crossed a fence (!) and reached the top at 2.30. I descended the by the N ridge, then got on to the path above Allt Mor, back to car at 4.30, in daylight. A nice contrast to yesterday.
Oct 28: Drove to Coylumbridge, my plan was to walk down Glen Einich, then go on to the Braeriach plateau, then drop down into An Garbh Choire. Not my best idea with hindsight. Set off at 9.10, and headed down the Glen, and at 12 headed toward the plateau. A long drag up, in increasingly dreary and dreich weather. Stopped for lunch in the drizzle. Carried on upwards after lunch, going increasingly more slowly, decided to abandon at about 1000m, headed towards Loch Coire a Lochan, spectacular situation, then descended via Beanaidh Bheag, the descent took a gratifyingly long time. I reached Glen Einich at about 5, then started the long walk back to the car, reached Coylumbridge, after the all important toilet break, at 6.45.
October 29: A beautiful morning. Drove to Blairnamarrow just beyond Tomintoul. Set off at 11.00, but the clouds soon rolled in with a cold wind, so put some more layers on. I had lunch just below the summit of Carn Ealasaid, reached the top in clear air, then headed for Beinn A Chruinn, at the top of the Lecht ski runs. I headed back to the car which I reached at 3.45, then went to The Lecht for a coffee, which was almost totally deserted. Returned via Tomintoul & Grantown.
October 30: Left Boat of Garten at 9.00, bound for Gairich, went via Inverness & Invergarry to Glen Kingie in dry weather. Arrived at the dam at 11 and it started to rain-hard. Seriously contemplated finding a Corbett but none were close enough. Fortunately the rain relented so got ready to leave, set off at 11.30, much too late for this time of year. After a few minutes, it started to rain again so put on all the waterproofs. I stopped for lunch at 1.30, but made the stop brief as I got cold quickly in the damp weather. I stopped again for more food just below the summit and reached the summit at 3.40 in the cloud. I decided to return via the ascent route. It became dark at 5, and managed to lose the path. I saw the ridge line in the gloom and got back on the right track. I picked up the path through the forest, and then headed over the bog to the dam. I got slightly sidetracked and went on the shore of the loch, cunningly, but unintentionally, avoiding the worst of the sodden ground. I was relieved to see the dam appear out of the dark, I crossed it and reached the car at 7.15. A great relief. I drove through torrential rain out of the Glen, then had a very disappointing meal at the Invergarry Hotel, I should have eaten my own remaining food. We live and learn. In spite of this, a really good day, a case of overcoming the elements.
Monday 23 November 2009
Sunday 22 November 2009
Roy Bridge/Plockton, September 12-19, 2009.
Sept 12:Left home at 10.00 am, a bit too late. Stopped off at Cotswold in Droitwitch to buy some walking poles and straps for my glasses. Then I carried on the journey north, got stuck in some awful traffic on the M5 & M6, for about 100 miles in one jam after another. Eventually crossed the border at about 6, one of the latest ever. A brief stop at Hamilton, then on to Pitlochry, at about 8.40, where I had to stop for food. I was dismayed to see the chip shop had already closed. It shut at 8.30, unbelievable especially as it had been the Highland Games in the town that day. I found another shop which was open & packed. I then went on to DPs place, which I reached at about 9.30, and had a welcome coffee. I only stayed for half an hour, as it was so late. I then carried on and reached Roy Bridge at 11. Far too late.
Sept 13: Arrived at Torebane at 11am, and briefly chatted to a woman who asked me if this was the right to place for Gulvain. I assured her it was. I made for Gulvain’s SW ridge, and was caught up by the woman from the car park, Lena. What a talker - it was non stop. Fortunately we parted company fairly soon. I slogged up the SW ridge which took me 3 hours. I met Mrs Talkative at the South summit, she had ascended via a different route and we went on to the main summit together which we reached at 4. We dropped off to the South, very steep ground, and rejoined the outward path at about 7. I took a diplomatic pit stop to give my ears a rest and then got back to the car at 8 in daylight. Back to Roy Bridge and another late night.
Sept 14: Due at Plockton tonight, so I decided to drive straight there and do a hill there. Arrived at about 12.30, unpacked and had some lunch, then drove to Applecross and decided to do Sgurr a Charoachain. I parked at the bridge over the Russell burn, and while I was parked a chap parked his shiny new car with a shiny girlfriend in it, and took some photos and then was off, after about 2 minutes. I trogged off up the Glen and was surprised to see how much the area had changed since my last visit to the Cioch Nose with Smudge and the Captain. I left the car at 3pm, and reached the summit at 6pm, in perfect weather. I descended to the east down some steep ground, then back to the car at 7.40 and back to Plockton.
Sept 15: Drove to Strathcarron, started up the path from Achintee, on the path to Bearnais, & Lurg Mhor, but turned round after 2 hours. I felt totally knackered the result of too many late nights. Back to the car at 1.30, then to Plockton. Passed out for a while, then did some shopping in the village, Richard and Barry arrived about 6, looking totally knackered after a day on Seana Bhraigh. We went out for a meal in Plockton, which was packed.
Sept 16: Left early, drove along the single track roads for the last time. Met a bus, then the dustbin lorry then another bus, amazing. Somehow managed to scrape past all of them. Arrived Attadale just before 9, rang the estate office no stalking taking place, so set off at 9.00. I arrived at Beinn Dronaig Bothy, after a fair amount of faffing. I used the facilities although that meant refilling the bucket and water bottle. I had some lunch there too. I then set off at 1.10 for the long drag up to Sheasgaich. Reached the summit at 3.30, in fabulous weather, superb view of the whole length of Loch Morar. I then set of for Lurg Mor, and reached the summit at 4.30. I dropped down the South side to Loch Calavie, reached the bothy at 6.45. I had a brief stop, but did not go in this time. Then carried on the long drag back to Attadale, a brief look for the path back to Achintee which I could not find. I then carried on to Attadale, which I reached at 9.45, back to Plockton at 10.30. I went in to the dining room where 4 people were still eating, a brief chat with Richard and Barry who were leaving very early the next morning. I decided not to go with them as I was feeling totally knackered. I then went back in to the Dining Room which was now empty. No doubt the group eating when I arrived had left because I looked a bit like the wild man of Borneo.
Sept 17: Richard and Barry left early, I was away a bit later, at about 9. I drove to Shiel Bridge and arrived there just after 11.00. I headed for a Corbett, Sgurr Mhic Bharrain. I set off at 11.30, moving quite slowly as I was still knackered after yesterday. I reached the summit at 3.00 and was back at the car at 4.45. I did a little bit of shopping and then drove on to Roy Bridge and met Richard and Barry at 6.15.
Sept 18. Up at 6.15, and left at 7.30, chatted to Richard, drove to Strathan, met a camper van on the Loch Arkaig Road, fortunately no more cars. Arrived at the road end just before 9 a bit of faffing while reading the notices re stalking, made up my sandwiches for the day and set off at 9.10. I was passed by a party of stalkers and we had a brief chat and found out where the stalking was taking place. Quite a relief that I was not going to be shot that day. I left the forest path, then went on to the footpath which was very boggy in parts, in one place I went up to my knees in bog at one point. I had my lunch just before the path branched off to Sgurr Na Ciche. I then pressed on over fairly easy ground and then avoided a nasty looking gully by going on the main ridge which led up from Sourlies bothy. The going became very steep and it became much colder. I put on a few more layers on plus gloves. The weather was definitely changing. I reached the summit of Na Ciche at 4.15, a huge effort. Fortunately, the next top Garbh Chioch Mhor was much closer, down to the bealach and up the other side. I was on the summit at 5. Then on to the last top, Sgurr nan Coireachan, the lowest top of the day, which I reached at 6.50. Short stop, then down the long south ridge, to rejoin my outward route. A bit of a scramble to get down before it started to go dark, which I just managed. I than had a drinks stop, and removed a few layers of clothing as it was much warmer than on the tops. Then the long walk back to Strathan, a beautiful night, the stars were so clear and plentiful. I passed a couple coming out for the week end, quite ghostly, as I could see their torch and reflective patches on their clothing from quite a long way off. I eventually reached the car at 10.05, quite a few more cars parked there since this morning, presumably week enders. I then prepared for the most worrying part of the day, the hideous drive along the north side of Loch Arkaig. Fortunately I met no vehicles coming in the opposite direction. I passed the rather strange settlements on the north side of the loch, a few fires were burning no doubt barbecuing the body of a hapless walker. I eventually reached Roy Bridge at 11.30. A long day, but now all the big Munros had been done and in good weather too.
Sept 19: A very late night-got to bed at about 1.00 am, so not feeling very lively, and not looking forward to the long drive home. Two stops to catch up on some sleep, and then a stop in Stirling to write some postcards, there, the secret is out! Then onwards South, had a ghastly fast food meal at about 5 at Keele Services. Absolutely revolting. The last stretch on the M40 was particularly testing, and I was driving extremely slowly, finally made it home at 11.45. A marathon!
Sept 13: Arrived at Torebane at 11am, and briefly chatted to a woman who asked me if this was the right to place for Gulvain. I assured her it was. I made for Gulvain’s SW ridge, and was caught up by the woman from the car park, Lena. What a talker - it was non stop. Fortunately we parted company fairly soon. I slogged up the SW ridge which took me 3 hours. I met Mrs Talkative at the South summit, she had ascended via a different route and we went on to the main summit together which we reached at 4. We dropped off to the South, very steep ground, and rejoined the outward path at about 7. I took a diplomatic pit stop to give my ears a rest and then got back to the car at 8 in daylight. Back to Roy Bridge and another late night.
Sept 14: Due at Plockton tonight, so I decided to drive straight there and do a hill there. Arrived at about 12.30, unpacked and had some lunch, then drove to Applecross and decided to do Sgurr a Charoachain. I parked at the bridge over the Russell burn, and while I was parked a chap parked his shiny new car with a shiny girlfriend in it, and took some photos and then was off, after about 2 minutes. I trogged off up the Glen and was surprised to see how much the area had changed since my last visit to the Cioch Nose with Smudge and the Captain. I left the car at 3pm, and reached the summit at 6pm, in perfect weather. I descended to the east down some steep ground, then back to the car at 7.40 and back to Plockton.
Sept 15: Drove to Strathcarron, started up the path from Achintee, on the path to Bearnais, & Lurg Mhor, but turned round after 2 hours. I felt totally knackered the result of too many late nights. Back to the car at 1.30, then to Plockton. Passed out for a while, then did some shopping in the village, Richard and Barry arrived about 6, looking totally knackered after a day on Seana Bhraigh. We went out for a meal in Plockton, which was packed.
Sept 16: Left early, drove along the single track roads for the last time. Met a bus, then the dustbin lorry then another bus, amazing. Somehow managed to scrape past all of them. Arrived Attadale just before 9, rang the estate office no stalking taking place, so set off at 9.00. I arrived at Beinn Dronaig Bothy, after a fair amount of faffing. I used the facilities although that meant refilling the bucket and water bottle. I had some lunch there too. I then set off at 1.10 for the long drag up to Sheasgaich. Reached the summit at 3.30, in fabulous weather, superb view of the whole length of Loch Morar. I then set of for Lurg Mor, and reached the summit at 4.30. I dropped down the South side to Loch Calavie, reached the bothy at 6.45. I had a brief stop, but did not go in this time. Then carried on the long drag back to Attadale, a brief look for the path back to Achintee which I could not find. I then carried on to Attadale, which I reached at 9.45, back to Plockton at 10.30. I went in to the dining room where 4 people were still eating, a brief chat with Richard and Barry who were leaving very early the next morning. I decided not to go with them as I was feeling totally knackered. I then went back in to the Dining Room which was now empty. No doubt the group eating when I arrived had left because I looked a bit like the wild man of Borneo.
Sept 17: Richard and Barry left early, I was away a bit later, at about 9. I drove to Shiel Bridge and arrived there just after 11.00. I headed for a Corbett, Sgurr Mhic Bharrain. I set off at 11.30, moving quite slowly as I was still knackered after yesterday. I reached the summit at 3.00 and was back at the car at 4.45. I did a little bit of shopping and then drove on to Roy Bridge and met Richard and Barry at 6.15.
Sept 18. Up at 6.15, and left at 7.30, chatted to Richard, drove to Strathan, met a camper van on the Loch Arkaig Road, fortunately no more cars. Arrived at the road end just before 9 a bit of faffing while reading the notices re stalking, made up my sandwiches for the day and set off at 9.10. I was passed by a party of stalkers and we had a brief chat and found out where the stalking was taking place. Quite a relief that I was not going to be shot that day. I left the forest path, then went on to the footpath which was very boggy in parts, in one place I went up to my knees in bog at one point. I had my lunch just before the path branched off to Sgurr Na Ciche. I then pressed on over fairly easy ground and then avoided a nasty looking gully by going on the main ridge which led up from Sourlies bothy. The going became very steep and it became much colder. I put on a few more layers on plus gloves. The weather was definitely changing. I reached the summit of Na Ciche at 4.15, a huge effort. Fortunately, the next top Garbh Chioch Mhor was much closer, down to the bealach and up the other side. I was on the summit at 5. Then on to the last top, Sgurr nan Coireachan, the lowest top of the day, which I reached at 6.50. Short stop, then down the long south ridge, to rejoin my outward route. A bit of a scramble to get down before it started to go dark, which I just managed. I than had a drinks stop, and removed a few layers of clothing as it was much warmer than on the tops. Then the long walk back to Strathan, a beautiful night, the stars were so clear and plentiful. I passed a couple coming out for the week end, quite ghostly, as I could see their torch and reflective patches on their clothing from quite a long way off. I eventually reached the car at 10.05, quite a few more cars parked there since this morning, presumably week enders. I then prepared for the most worrying part of the day, the hideous drive along the north side of Loch Arkaig. Fortunately I met no vehicles coming in the opposite direction. I passed the rather strange settlements on the north side of the loch, a few fires were burning no doubt barbecuing the body of a hapless walker. I eventually reached Roy Bridge at 11.30. A long day, but now all the big Munros had been done and in good weather too.
Sept 19: A very late night-got to bed at about 1.00 am, so not feeling very lively, and not looking forward to the long drive home. Two stops to catch up on some sleep, and then a stop in Stirling to write some postcards, there, the secret is out! Then onwards South, had a ghastly fast food meal at about 5 at Keele Services. Absolutely revolting. The last stretch on the M40 was particularly testing, and I was driving extremely slowly, finally made it home at 11.45. A marathon!
Glen Carron/Invergarry, May 16-25, 2009.
May 16:Received a text message from Ian the previous evening, saying he would not be coming. A very late start ensued, not helped by a shopping stop before getting on the road. Fortunately there was very little traffic on the road and no jams. I stopped at Bankfoot just north of Perth, and spent the night at Aviemore Youth hostel. The place was looking quite shabby, no investment in the fabric of the building.
May 17: Left about 8.30, drove straight to Inverlael, after refuelling in Aviemore, arrived at Inverlael at about 10.20. Set off about 20 minutes later, feeling that this was rather late for such a big day. Fortunately there was an excellent path for half the way, and had lunch when it came to an end. Then over some quite complex ground, descending to the col, and then ascended to the South summit and reached the main summit at 3.30. Left the main summit at 3.45, and got back to the car at 7.30, just one other car left in the car park when I got back. I stopped at the Aultguish for an excellent evening meal, & then on to the Ledgowan Lodge Bunkhouse which was to be my home for the rest of the week.
May 18: Drove to Craig and left the car park at 9.45, again a bit late for such a big mountain, dawdled on the excellent path and did not reach Glenuaig until 12.45. As it then started to rain and there was a shelter next to the cottage, I had an early lunch. I then headed down to the stream and started the long drag up to the summit. I passed quite a few people coming down, in increasingly wet weather. The last section from the col below the final pull to the summit was in constant rain. I thought of returning by Carn nan Fiaclan, but decided against as time was pressing, so returned by the route of ascent, back to Glenuaig by 6.20. Decided to put the foot down, back to Craig within 2 hours in constant rain, which brought on a severe grump and a late meal.
May 19: Beautiful day, headed for Sgurr Choinnich and Sgurr a Chaorachain. To Craig again, a bit earlier this time, left at 9.45, and got to the wire bridge at 10.40. A bit of faffing to find the path leading to the bealach. Soon realised the reason why-I had crossed by a bridge not marked on the OS map which was about 400 metres north of the bridge I should have crossed by….. or should I? I then took the excellent path to the bealach, where I had lunch in a rather chilly wind at about 12.50. Then I pushed on to Choinnich, which I reached after a succession of false summits at 2.30, then on to Chaorachain, which I reached an hour later. I played with the idea of going on to Beinn an Eoin Dearg which looked magnificent, but headed straight down off the summit to the glen where the river was little more than a trickle so no tricky river crossing. Back to Craig at 7.00 after walking down the track in superb sunshine. Alas there was to be little more of this….
May 20: Decided to head for Beinn Eighe and Speidean nan Clach, re acquainting myself with the mountain which I had last visited with Ian 17 years earlier. I stopped off in Kinlochewe to do some shopping & met Tom Forrest who I stayed with in January. We had a chat and I then head off to left the ling Hut Car Park which I left at 10.00 in unpromising conditions. I reached Loch Choire Mhic Fhearcair at about 12.15. I found a pretty chilly lunch stop at the head of the loch, but did not linger. I then headed for the ascent up the scree slope to the summit plateau, with the clouds quite low. I pressed on to Spidean which to my delight was clear, making sure I went to the proper summit, which I reached at 4. I then plunged down the scree slopes, but the wrist loop of my one of my pole was flapping uselessly-the screw holding it in had come adrift. Carried on after doing a minor repair, and reached the car park after getting on to the ascent path after crossing the burn.
May 21: Rest Day. Drove to Gairloch, Poolewe, attempted to go on a boat trip from Gairloch, they would not go out, too windy. Stopped of at what had been the Loch Maree Hotel, investigated a bat trip to other side f loch.
May 22. Last day in bunkhouse. Packed everything up and left at 7.30, set off from Craig at 7.55.started raining at 8.30, and carried on and on….Crossed stream by “correct” bridge. It was awful, ropes sagging like an old washing line, swaying all over the place. Made one attempt, went back, tried again, and then managed to put my boot in the stream about ¾ of the way across after performing ridiculous contortions to stay upright. I joined the path to the bealach and soon every bit of clothing was sodden, I made it up to the base of Tharsuinn, and then decided the whole episode was futile and retreated. I met the couple from the bunkhouse on the way down, got to the stream and had lunch. Mercifully it had stopped raining. I felt warm for the first time that day. I crossed stream by the other bridge about 20 minutes downstream, much better. I ambled my way back to the Craig, and arrived there at 4.15. Drove back to Achnasheen spent that night in the hotel, bliss, luxury, warmth, dried my clothes in their drying room.
May 23: Left the Ledgowan Hotel just after 9, drove to Glen Quoich, and a long drive along the Glen. Started off at 12.30, it started raining after about an hour, and got to the top in awful weather, decided to descend by the corrie to the North of the mountain. Went too far to the West, so had to ascend some ground before reaching the bealach. Then started the long descent to the River Quoich, I got to the confluence with the river, water on 2 sides, nowhere to cross. The OS had printed a path crossing the Allt Coire a Chaorrain about 400 metres from the confluence. Quite impossible to cross with the river in spate. I had to walk quite a long way back up the stream abut fortunately found somewhere and then headed down the opposite bank. After that no more drama, back to the car at 7.30, Invergarry at 8.30.
May 24: Last day on the hills. Back along Glen Quoich, but not so far as yesterday. Left the car at 10.00, stopped at 11.30 for a bite, then put on the waterproof clothing, yet more rain. I was passed by one couple who I met again on the summit of Gleouraich. We had a longish chat; they decided to go back, a sensible decision. I stupidly carried on to Spidean Mialach, could not see a thing, arrived at the top of Spidean. Took a compass bearing then copuld not get my gloves back on as they and my hands were so wet. I started the descent, which became more and more squelchier, one tricky river crossing though nothing like as bad as yesterday’s. Back to the car at 4.45, had some food, and changed my clothes. Then started the long drive to Dave’s house, got there at about 7. Went for a walk with Dave and his dog Shady, who we very nearly lost, in fact I had given him up. He had been rooting round for rabbits. Back to DP’s house, bliss to be in a warm house and a comfortable bed.
May 25: Left DP’s house at about 9 in the cold and wet, but stopped in Stirling and it must have been at least 10 degrees warmer. Summer had arrived! Then went on the long drive South got back to Maidenbower after 9, in the rain again! A good week, but a wet one.
May 17: Left about 8.30, drove straight to Inverlael, after refuelling in Aviemore, arrived at Inverlael at about 10.20. Set off about 20 minutes later, feeling that this was rather late for such a big day. Fortunately there was an excellent path for half the way, and had lunch when it came to an end. Then over some quite complex ground, descending to the col, and then ascended to the South summit and reached the main summit at 3.30. Left the main summit at 3.45, and got back to the car at 7.30, just one other car left in the car park when I got back. I stopped at the Aultguish for an excellent evening meal, & then on to the Ledgowan Lodge Bunkhouse which was to be my home for the rest of the week.
May 18: Drove to Craig and left the car park at 9.45, again a bit late for such a big mountain, dawdled on the excellent path and did not reach Glenuaig until 12.45. As it then started to rain and there was a shelter next to the cottage, I had an early lunch. I then headed down to the stream and started the long drag up to the summit. I passed quite a few people coming down, in increasingly wet weather. The last section from the col below the final pull to the summit was in constant rain. I thought of returning by Carn nan Fiaclan, but decided against as time was pressing, so returned by the route of ascent, back to Glenuaig by 6.20. Decided to put the foot down, back to Craig within 2 hours in constant rain, which brought on a severe grump and a late meal.
May 19: Beautiful day, headed for Sgurr Choinnich and Sgurr a Chaorachain. To Craig again, a bit earlier this time, left at 9.45, and got to the wire bridge at 10.40. A bit of faffing to find the path leading to the bealach. Soon realised the reason why-I had crossed by a bridge not marked on the OS map which was about 400 metres north of the bridge I should have crossed by….. or should I? I then took the excellent path to the bealach, where I had lunch in a rather chilly wind at about 12.50. Then I pushed on to Choinnich, which I reached after a succession of false summits at 2.30, then on to Chaorachain, which I reached an hour later. I played with the idea of going on to Beinn an Eoin Dearg which looked magnificent, but headed straight down off the summit to the glen where the river was little more than a trickle so no tricky river crossing. Back to Craig at 7.00 after walking down the track in superb sunshine. Alas there was to be little more of this….
May 20: Decided to head for Beinn Eighe and Speidean nan Clach, re acquainting myself with the mountain which I had last visited with Ian 17 years earlier. I stopped off in Kinlochewe to do some shopping & met Tom Forrest who I stayed with in January. We had a chat and I then head off to left the ling Hut Car Park which I left at 10.00 in unpromising conditions. I reached Loch Choire Mhic Fhearcair at about 12.15. I found a pretty chilly lunch stop at the head of the loch, but did not linger. I then headed for the ascent up the scree slope to the summit plateau, with the clouds quite low. I pressed on to Spidean which to my delight was clear, making sure I went to the proper summit, which I reached at 4. I then plunged down the scree slopes, but the wrist loop of my one of my pole was flapping uselessly-the screw holding it in had come adrift. Carried on after doing a minor repair, and reached the car park after getting on to the ascent path after crossing the burn.
May 21: Rest Day. Drove to Gairloch, Poolewe, attempted to go on a boat trip from Gairloch, they would not go out, too windy. Stopped of at what had been the Loch Maree Hotel, investigated a bat trip to other side f loch.
May 22. Last day in bunkhouse. Packed everything up and left at 7.30, set off from Craig at 7.55.started raining at 8.30, and carried on and on….Crossed stream by “correct” bridge. It was awful, ropes sagging like an old washing line, swaying all over the place. Made one attempt, went back, tried again, and then managed to put my boot in the stream about ¾ of the way across after performing ridiculous contortions to stay upright. I joined the path to the bealach and soon every bit of clothing was sodden, I made it up to the base of Tharsuinn, and then decided the whole episode was futile and retreated. I met the couple from the bunkhouse on the way down, got to the stream and had lunch. Mercifully it had stopped raining. I felt warm for the first time that day. I crossed stream by the other bridge about 20 minutes downstream, much better. I ambled my way back to the Craig, and arrived there at 4.15. Drove back to Achnasheen spent that night in the hotel, bliss, luxury, warmth, dried my clothes in their drying room.
May 23: Left the Ledgowan Hotel just after 9, drove to Glen Quoich, and a long drive along the Glen. Started off at 12.30, it started raining after about an hour, and got to the top in awful weather, decided to descend by the corrie to the North of the mountain. Went too far to the West, so had to ascend some ground before reaching the bealach. Then started the long descent to the River Quoich, I got to the confluence with the river, water on 2 sides, nowhere to cross. The OS had printed a path crossing the Allt Coire a Chaorrain about 400 metres from the confluence. Quite impossible to cross with the river in spate. I had to walk quite a long way back up the stream abut fortunately found somewhere and then headed down the opposite bank. After that no more drama, back to the car at 7.30, Invergarry at 8.30.
May 24: Last day on the hills. Back along Glen Quoich, but not so far as yesterday. Left the car at 10.00, stopped at 11.30 for a bite, then put on the waterproof clothing, yet more rain. I was passed by one couple who I met again on the summit of Gleouraich. We had a longish chat; they decided to go back, a sensible decision. I stupidly carried on to Spidean Mialach, could not see a thing, arrived at the top of Spidean. Took a compass bearing then copuld not get my gloves back on as they and my hands were so wet. I started the descent, which became more and more squelchier, one tricky river crossing though nothing like as bad as yesterday’s. Back to the car at 4.45, had some food, and changed my clothes. Then started the long drive to Dave’s house, got there at about 7. Went for a walk with Dave and his dog Shady, who we very nearly lost, in fact I had given him up. He had been rooting round for rabbits. Back to DP’s house, bliss to be in a warm house and a comfortable bed.
May 25: Left DP’s house at about 9 in the cold and wet, but stopped in Stirling and it must have been at least 10 degrees warmer. Summer had arrived! Then went on the long drive South got back to Maidenbower after 9, in the rain again! A good week, but a wet one.
Kinlochewe January 10-17, 2009.
Jan 10: Left home at 8.30, no jams on the drive, one advantage of going North in January. I stopped in Aviemore for an evening meal, wishing that I was staying there, as I was nearly at the end of my tether, but staggered on to Inverness, and stayed at Inverness Youth Hostel, not a good venue. In fact it bought out a strong attack of grumpiness. I filled out to their comments card with a long list. No doubt they will file it in the bin.
Jan 11: Drove on to Kinlochewe, then to Diabaig in pretty poor weather. Mark decided to stay in Diabaig and look around the village, while I walked to Craig, formerly a YH now a bothy, met a rather odd character, possibly a professional bothier. As I prepared to leave, I opened the door of the bothy and a blast of warm air hit me. Very strange. I went back in very warm weather, back to the car at about 3.30, drove over a rather hairy road, fortunately in the daylight (just) to Kinlochewe and our B&B.
Jan 12: Again, not a very nice day, but up for breakfast at 8, in the dark, and drove to Achnasheen. I set off for Fionn Bheinn in rather nasty weather - damp, and windy. I left the car at 9.15, and successfully found the ridge, no snow and then mad for the summit in misty, wet conditions reached the top at about12.30. I descended by the East Ridge and then headed south after negotiating one fence and one gate. Walked back to the car along the road, a good day, back at the car at about 3.40.
Jan 13: Mark’s last day, I decided on Slioch and he did a hill just to the SE. We left Incheril at 9.30 and walked together for bout half an hour before parting. I then carried on to the bridge over the river, and then made for the lowest point on the skyline and into Coire na Sleaghaich. I then pulled up steep ground to the North of the lochans, and then reached a false summit with a cairn, no sign of a trig and then the clouds cleared and saw some rather steep ground ahead. Fortunately it was a short pull and reached the South top soon after. I then carried on to the North top after a short fall and rise which I reached at 1.30. I turned round and returned by the route of ascent, stopped for some lunch at the head of the corrie, and carried on in a snow fall to the bridge over the stream. I carried on over various streams and managed to fall over while crossing one and gave myself a clip behind the ear courtesy of a strategically placed rock. I made it to the car park at about 4.45, just as the light was going. Quick change and then took Mark to the station, and he had the train to himself.
Jan 14: Good forecast, headed over to Beinn Alligin, set off at about 9.45 from the car park beyond Torridon House. Beautiful morning, the tops in full view for a change. I followed the stream into the heart of the corrie, and met someone coming down. I had a brief chat - he had come over from Inverness that morning and had to get back to go to work in the afternoon. I carried on to the summit which I reached at about 12.40, quite surprised to be there so early. I set off for the col between the 2 summits, but had a bit of faffing to get off the summit block, one blind alley and then had to back track. I was faced with an easy looking descent which was horribly exposed, with a short cut to the floor of the corrie about 2000 feet below. Not surprisingly. I decided on a different route. I then stopped at the col for a bit of lunch, but only stopped very briefly as it was extremely cold. I carried on to Sgurr Mhor, but stopped as my hands were getting very cold. I put on my warmest pair of gloves and felt much better. I made it to the top at 2.30. I then started to think it might have been better to have started a little bit earlier, as I had only 2 hours of daylight to get over the Horns of Alligin, and did not know a) how many there were and b) how difficult the terrain was. I descended rapidly to the foot of the first Horn, and started to ascend as quickly as possible. It was very straightforward at first and then a few unorthodox moves followed, knees played a large part. I ended up on one ledge, like a fish landed on a river bank. I made it to the top, then down and up to the next horn was straightforward and less of a rise and fall. I now took off some clothing and put on a thinner pair of gloves. I descend to the foot of the third and last horn and decided to skirt the top as time was pressing, and was relieved to see easy ground ahead. I attempted a descent to the East, as Tom in the B&B had suggested, but decided to carry on due South. I soon picked up the main path, and reached the bridge over the stream at about 5 and had a second lunch, and took off some layers. I then carried on the car park which I reached at about 5.40. A great day.
Jan 15: Strong winds forecast, so I decided to keep low. The first time since Sunday when I had not taken the crampons which I had not used at all. I drove to the Ling Hut car park and then headed to Corrie Mhic Fhearcair. At times the wind was very strong, and it was a real struggle to make progress. Just as well I was not on the tops. I made it into the corrie and had a look at the amazing Triple Buttress. I contoured round the foot of Ruadh Stac Mor, looking for a possible alternative route up the mountain on my next visit. After a spot of lunch, I headed east and was pleased to pick up a path almost immediately, which unfortunately disappeared from time to time. After about 2 hours I picked up the main path, and started the long descent into Kinlochewe. I got back to the house just after it had got dark. Tom very kindly gave me a lift to the car park where I picked up the car.
Jan 16/17: The weather forecast was for more of the same, so I decided to head South. A brief stop in Aviemore to write and post some cards and I spent the night in Arnside, after receiving the terrible news about Steve Dale. I left early the next day, and got home at about 4.30. A great week.
Jan 11: Drove on to Kinlochewe, then to Diabaig in pretty poor weather. Mark decided to stay in Diabaig and look around the village, while I walked to Craig, formerly a YH now a bothy, met a rather odd character, possibly a professional bothier. As I prepared to leave, I opened the door of the bothy and a blast of warm air hit me. Very strange. I went back in very warm weather, back to the car at about 3.30, drove over a rather hairy road, fortunately in the daylight (just) to Kinlochewe and our B&B.
Jan 12: Again, not a very nice day, but up for breakfast at 8, in the dark, and drove to Achnasheen. I set off for Fionn Bheinn in rather nasty weather - damp, and windy. I left the car at 9.15, and successfully found the ridge, no snow and then mad for the summit in misty, wet conditions reached the top at about12.30. I descended by the East Ridge and then headed south after negotiating one fence and one gate. Walked back to the car along the road, a good day, back at the car at about 3.40.
Jan 13: Mark’s last day, I decided on Slioch and he did a hill just to the SE. We left Incheril at 9.30 and walked together for bout half an hour before parting. I then carried on to the bridge over the river, and then made for the lowest point on the skyline and into Coire na Sleaghaich. I then pulled up steep ground to the North of the lochans, and then reached a false summit with a cairn, no sign of a trig and then the clouds cleared and saw some rather steep ground ahead. Fortunately it was a short pull and reached the South top soon after. I then carried on to the North top after a short fall and rise which I reached at 1.30. I turned round and returned by the route of ascent, stopped for some lunch at the head of the corrie, and carried on in a snow fall to the bridge over the stream. I carried on over various streams and managed to fall over while crossing one and gave myself a clip behind the ear courtesy of a strategically placed rock. I made it to the car park at about 4.45, just as the light was going. Quick change and then took Mark to the station, and he had the train to himself.
Jan 14: Good forecast, headed over to Beinn Alligin, set off at about 9.45 from the car park beyond Torridon House. Beautiful morning, the tops in full view for a change. I followed the stream into the heart of the corrie, and met someone coming down. I had a brief chat - he had come over from Inverness that morning and had to get back to go to work in the afternoon. I carried on to the summit which I reached at about 12.40, quite surprised to be there so early. I set off for the col between the 2 summits, but had a bit of faffing to get off the summit block, one blind alley and then had to back track. I was faced with an easy looking descent which was horribly exposed, with a short cut to the floor of the corrie about 2000 feet below. Not surprisingly. I decided on a different route. I then stopped at the col for a bit of lunch, but only stopped very briefly as it was extremely cold. I carried on to Sgurr Mhor, but stopped as my hands were getting very cold. I put on my warmest pair of gloves and felt much better. I made it to the top at 2.30. I then started to think it might have been better to have started a little bit earlier, as I had only 2 hours of daylight to get over the Horns of Alligin, and did not know a) how many there were and b) how difficult the terrain was. I descended rapidly to the foot of the first Horn, and started to ascend as quickly as possible. It was very straightforward at first and then a few unorthodox moves followed, knees played a large part. I ended up on one ledge, like a fish landed on a river bank. I made it to the top, then down and up to the next horn was straightforward and less of a rise and fall. I now took off some clothing and put on a thinner pair of gloves. I descend to the foot of the third and last horn and decided to skirt the top as time was pressing, and was relieved to see easy ground ahead. I attempted a descent to the East, as Tom in the B&B had suggested, but decided to carry on due South. I soon picked up the main path, and reached the bridge over the stream at about 5 and had a second lunch, and took off some layers. I then carried on the car park which I reached at about 5.40. A great day.
Jan 15: Strong winds forecast, so I decided to keep low. The first time since Sunday when I had not taken the crampons which I had not used at all. I drove to the Ling Hut car park and then headed to Corrie Mhic Fhearcair. At times the wind was very strong, and it was a real struggle to make progress. Just as well I was not on the tops. I made it into the corrie and had a look at the amazing Triple Buttress. I contoured round the foot of Ruadh Stac Mor, looking for a possible alternative route up the mountain on my next visit. After a spot of lunch, I headed east and was pleased to pick up a path almost immediately, which unfortunately disappeared from time to time. After about 2 hours I picked up the main path, and started the long descent into Kinlochewe. I got back to the house just after it had got dark. Tom very kindly gave me a lift to the car park where I picked up the car.
Jan 16/17: The weather forecast was for more of the same, so I decided to head South. A brief stop in Aviemore to write and post some cards and I spent the night in Arnside, after receiving the terrible news about Steve Dale. I left early the next day, and got home at about 4.30. A great week.
Ratagan, March 15-22, 2008.
March 15: Left home at 10.30, and the day developed into a shopping trip-stopped off in Carlisle and then again in Perth, getting very forgetful. I then spent the night in Wester Caputh just north of Perth.
March 16: Left Perth at about 9.00, then had another bout of shopping at Pitlochry, arrived at Cluanie at about 11.30. After some faffing trying to decide the best place to park, I left the car by the Cluanie. I set off at 11.45 for Aonach Mheadhoin, and reached the first snow at 500 metres. I then headed for the summit via Sgurr an Fhuarail, and reached the top at 2.30. I met two people, Richard & Barry, who were also staying at Ratagan coming in the opposite direction. I then carried on to Sgurr a Bhealaich Dheirg, which took ages, due to deep snow and poor visibility. I reached the summit at 4.50, about 2k from the previous top. The summit cairn was a big one. I then carried along the N.E. ridge which was very narrow, when it gained height, I took the easy way out, and dropped down to the East where I ploughed on through some deep snow. I then ascended to the bealach, then walked some distance along it, then headed South towards the Cluanie, made it back to the car at 8.00pm, then on to Ratagan, where I saw none other than Mark Smith in the Dining Room.
March 17: An attempt on the South Cluanie Ridge. I debated whether to do the whole ridge in one go, or in several portions. I decided to see how things progressed. I parked at the Cluanie and set off at 9.30. I made good time on an excellent track, in fact the old road to Tomdoun, now interrupted by the flooded Loch Loyne. I left the track and headed up a well marked path up the SE ridge of Creag a Mhaim, which I reached at 12.55. I had some lunch in the sun, then headed on to Drum Shionnaich, then Aonach Air Chrith, which was a reallly spectacular summit, which required a sharp turn to the SW. Then on to Maol Chin Dearg, which I reached at 5.00. I decided to call it a day there, and descended back to the Glen, a very quick descent, back at the road at 6.30, then a 40 minute walk back along the road, and back at the Cluanie at 7.10.
March 18: Left the car a short disatnce W of where I came down yesterday. I set off at 9.10. A bit of a grim start as it was snowing. I ascended by yesterday's descent-a bit of a grind, but got to the top at 12.15. I joined the ridge and and dropped down to Sgurr Coire na Feinne, then on to Sgurr an Doire Leathain, the first munro of the day. I had some difficulty finding the summit as it was some way along the northern spur of the ridge. Then on to Sgurr an Lochain (no 250), then descended to the col below Sgurr Beag, descned to the road, back at the car at 5.20.
March 19: Set off at 9.10 forthe first top of the day, Faochag, an unremitting slog, very hard going up very steep ground, then carried on to Sgurr na Signe, and had lunch just below the summit. I descended to the south on bare rock, tricky with crampons on, then NE to the col just below Sgurr a Bhac Chaolais, then ascended steeply to its summit. I then made for the bealach, then on the long ridge to Creag nan Damh, the last top of the Cluanie ridge. There were about 6 false summits on the ridge, plus a very exciting descent from the last bump on the ridge to the summit. I descended to the north after clearing the summit crags, then ascended Sgurr a Chuilin, then doown some very steep ground to the NW, and back to the car with no walking along the road. The end of the South Cluanie Ridge after 3 days!
March 20: Lousy weather, so took a rest day, went into Kyle, a pretty dreary place, then on to Eilean Dolan, then over the Mam Ratagan to Glenelg where the ferry to Skye had just started up. I drove a little way back, then walked along the beach. I then went back to Ratagan via Glenelg, and then investigated the camp site at Moyle.
March 21: Set off from Morvich, and geared up at the car park as it was raining. I walked down Glen Licht and then past the hut at the end of the glen. I crossed the river (burn?) by a new bridge, the old one had collapsed at a slightly drunken angle. I headed for Camban on a suoerb path, although uphill. I left the path at some waterfalls, and spent some time avoiding crags. It might have been better to have stayed on the path a bit longer, and avoid the crags and doubled back, but ran out of patience as usual. I then headed in the direction of Saileag, up the south ridge. A bit of up and down in trying weather, very windy, felt cold in spite of having all my layers on. I put my crampons on when the incline allowed, and made the summit at 2.10. I headed towards the col, and faffed around trying to find the best descent route. I got to the lowest part of the col, then descended without difficulty. I reached ground free of snow, which was absolutely saturated. I reached Glen Licht House, then headed back along the path I had walked down earlier in the day. I was walking into a head wind and it was snowing-I felt quite intrepid. I got back to the car at 5.50, an excellent day, although a bit trying at times.
March 22: Home day, set off home, good conditions, no traffic jams, but a long drive home.
March 16: Left Perth at about 9.00, then had another bout of shopping at Pitlochry, arrived at Cluanie at about 11.30. After some faffing trying to decide the best place to park, I left the car by the Cluanie. I set off at 11.45 for Aonach Mheadhoin, and reached the first snow at 500 metres. I then headed for the summit via Sgurr an Fhuarail, and reached the top at 2.30. I met two people, Richard & Barry, who were also staying at Ratagan coming in the opposite direction. I then carried on to Sgurr a Bhealaich Dheirg, which took ages, due to deep snow and poor visibility. I reached the summit at 4.50, about 2k from the previous top. The summit cairn was a big one. I then carried along the N.E. ridge which was very narrow, when it gained height, I took the easy way out, and dropped down to the East where I ploughed on through some deep snow. I then ascended to the bealach, then walked some distance along it, then headed South towards the Cluanie, made it back to the car at 8.00pm, then on to Ratagan, where I saw none other than Mark Smith in the Dining Room.
March 17: An attempt on the South Cluanie Ridge. I debated whether to do the whole ridge in one go, or in several portions. I decided to see how things progressed. I parked at the Cluanie and set off at 9.30. I made good time on an excellent track, in fact the old road to Tomdoun, now interrupted by the flooded Loch Loyne. I left the track and headed up a well marked path up the SE ridge of Creag a Mhaim, which I reached at 12.55. I had some lunch in the sun, then headed on to Drum Shionnaich, then Aonach Air Chrith, which was a reallly spectacular summit, which required a sharp turn to the SW. Then on to Maol Chin Dearg, which I reached at 5.00. I decided to call it a day there, and descended back to the Glen, a very quick descent, back at the road at 6.30, then a 40 minute walk back along the road, and back at the Cluanie at 7.10.
March 18: Left the car a short disatnce W of where I came down yesterday. I set off at 9.10. A bit of a grim start as it was snowing. I ascended by yesterday's descent-a bit of a grind, but got to the top at 12.15. I joined the ridge and and dropped down to Sgurr Coire na Feinne, then on to Sgurr an Doire Leathain, the first munro of the day. I had some difficulty finding the summit as it was some way along the northern spur of the ridge. Then on to Sgurr an Lochain (no 250), then descended to the col below Sgurr Beag, descned to the road, back at the car at 5.20.
March 19: Set off at 9.10 forthe first top of the day, Faochag, an unremitting slog, very hard going up very steep ground, then carried on to Sgurr na Signe, and had lunch just below the summit. I descended to the south on bare rock, tricky with crampons on, then NE to the col just below Sgurr a Bhac Chaolais, then ascended steeply to its summit. I then made for the bealach, then on the long ridge to Creag nan Damh, the last top of the Cluanie ridge. There were about 6 false summits on the ridge, plus a very exciting descent from the last bump on the ridge to the summit. I descended to the north after clearing the summit crags, then ascended Sgurr a Chuilin, then doown some very steep ground to the NW, and back to the car with no walking along the road. The end of the South Cluanie Ridge after 3 days!
March 20: Lousy weather, so took a rest day, went into Kyle, a pretty dreary place, then on to Eilean Dolan, then over the Mam Ratagan to Glenelg where the ferry to Skye had just started up. I drove a little way back, then walked along the beach. I then went back to Ratagan via Glenelg, and then investigated the camp site at Moyle.
March 21: Set off from Morvich, and geared up at the car park as it was raining. I walked down Glen Licht and then past the hut at the end of the glen. I crossed the river (burn?) by a new bridge, the old one had collapsed at a slightly drunken angle. I headed for Camban on a suoerb path, although uphill. I left the path at some waterfalls, and spent some time avoiding crags. It might have been better to have stayed on the path a bit longer, and avoid the crags and doubled back, but ran out of patience as usual. I then headed in the direction of Saileag, up the south ridge. A bit of up and down in trying weather, very windy, felt cold in spite of having all my layers on. I put my crampons on when the incline allowed, and made the summit at 2.10. I headed towards the col, and faffed around trying to find the best descent route. I got to the lowest part of the col, then descended without difficulty. I reached ground free of snow, which was absolutely saturated. I reached Glen Licht House, then headed back along the path I had walked down earlier in the day. I was walking into a head wind and it was snowing-I felt quite intrepid. I got back to the car at 5.50, an excellent day, although a bit trying at times.
March 22: Home day, set off home, good conditions, no traffic jams, but a long drive home.
Laggan/Glenfinnan/Knoydart July 26-August 2, 2008.
July 26: Drove north, arrived South Laggan at 9.45, a very hot evening.
July 27: Sgurr Mor. Drove along Loch Arkaig, parked at the road end. Long drive, not much room to park, but set off at about 10.30. Took a wrong turn at first, and went on an endless path through the forest. Realised my error, and walked back to the junction of the paths. Got onto the right track and got on track behind Glen Dessary House, then dropped into Glen Kingie. Followed the stalkers path to the col between An Eag & Sgurr Beag. Carried on up to Sgurr Mor, reached the summit at 6.30 in cloud and put my jersey on for the first time. Then descended to the col below Sgurr an Fhuarain, dropped down into Glen Kingie again then retraced my steps to Strathan & the car, which I reached at 9.45, still full light, reached the bunk house at 10.45. The first of many late nights.
July 28: Drove to Fort William to buy new headtorch, then on to Glenfinnan. Boiling hot day, chatted with a couple in the car park, then set off at 11.30, on top of Sgurr Thuilm at 3.30, then on to Sgurr nan Coireachan by the ridge, which I reached at 6.15. Then started the descent back to the Glen, ran out of water & coffee on the descent, went without fluid for 40 minutes, not pleasant, back to the car at 9.25, then drove on to Mallaig. Ghastly night in a dreadul hostel, never again, resolved to write a letter of complaint.
July 29: Took the morning ferry to Inverie, stayed at the Knoydart Foundation Bunkhouse. Let the Bunkhouse at 12.30 for Ladhar Bheinn. Walked through the village, then on Glen Guiserein, then up Corrie an Asgaill. Joined the ridge East of the summit, then on to the summit at 6.35, dropped down to the Glen then retraced my steps, arrived back at the bunkhouse at 10.30.
July 30: Set off at 9.45, walked to Mam Barrisdale, then had lunch at 1pm, just beyond the Mam. Cloud closed in at about 2, reached the summit of Luinne Bheinn at 3, then went on to Meall Buidhe, long way, lots of up & down, in cloud all the way, reached the top at 6.30, descended by the ridge, took ages to get off the end of the ridge to the river. Back to bunkhouse at 10.30.
July 31st: Set off at 8.30, v. wet morning, headed for the Mam again, The rain stopped at 9.00 a.m. Reached top of pass at midday. Reached summit at 2.00pm, left at 2.30, headed back to Mam, by the route I had used up yesterday. Had major feet problem on the way back, really hurting, took both boots off bathed them in a stream, beautiful, but had massive blisters on both heels. Stopped to look at the Brocket Memorial, it took some effort to get to it, absolutely huge, room to stand up inside it! Got back to the bunkhouse at 7.45.
August 1st: Stopped at pottery shop for coffee & sandwiches with Raquel & Richard, caught the morning ferry, raining, then back to Mallaig at 11.30. Stopped at Fisherman’s mission for lunch, rather greasy, then took R&R back to Glenfinnan. Drove on to Fort William, then spent the night in Crianlarich.
August 2nd: Breakfast at the railway station in Crinalarich. Left at 9.15, then got home at 9.30. Great week.
July 27: Sgurr Mor. Drove along Loch Arkaig, parked at the road end. Long drive, not much room to park, but set off at about 10.30. Took a wrong turn at first, and went on an endless path through the forest. Realised my error, and walked back to the junction of the paths. Got onto the right track and got on track behind Glen Dessary House, then dropped into Glen Kingie. Followed the stalkers path to the col between An Eag & Sgurr Beag. Carried on up to Sgurr Mor, reached the summit at 6.30 in cloud and put my jersey on for the first time. Then descended to the col below Sgurr an Fhuarain, dropped down into Glen Kingie again then retraced my steps to Strathan & the car, which I reached at 9.45, still full light, reached the bunk house at 10.45. The first of many late nights.
July 28: Drove to Fort William to buy new headtorch, then on to Glenfinnan. Boiling hot day, chatted with a couple in the car park, then set off at 11.30, on top of Sgurr Thuilm at 3.30, then on to Sgurr nan Coireachan by the ridge, which I reached at 6.15. Then started the descent back to the Glen, ran out of water & coffee on the descent, went without fluid for 40 minutes, not pleasant, back to the car at 9.25, then drove on to Mallaig. Ghastly night in a dreadul hostel, never again, resolved to write a letter of complaint.
July 29: Took the morning ferry to Inverie, stayed at the Knoydart Foundation Bunkhouse. Let the Bunkhouse at 12.30 for Ladhar Bheinn. Walked through the village, then on Glen Guiserein, then up Corrie an Asgaill. Joined the ridge East of the summit, then on to the summit at 6.35, dropped down to the Glen then retraced my steps, arrived back at the bunkhouse at 10.30.
July 30: Set off at 9.45, walked to Mam Barrisdale, then had lunch at 1pm, just beyond the Mam. Cloud closed in at about 2, reached the summit of Luinne Bheinn at 3, then went on to Meall Buidhe, long way, lots of up & down, in cloud all the way, reached the top at 6.30, descended by the ridge, took ages to get off the end of the ridge to the river. Back to bunkhouse at 10.30.
July 31st: Set off at 8.30, v. wet morning, headed for the Mam again, The rain stopped at 9.00 a.m. Reached top of pass at midday. Reached summit at 2.00pm, left at 2.30, headed back to Mam, by the route I had used up yesterday. Had major feet problem on the way back, really hurting, took both boots off bathed them in a stream, beautiful, but had massive blisters on both heels. Stopped to look at the Brocket Memorial, it took some effort to get to it, absolutely huge, room to stand up inside it! Got back to the bunkhouse at 7.45.
August 1st: Stopped at pottery shop for coffee & sandwiches with Raquel & Richard, caught the morning ferry, raining, then back to Mallaig at 11.30. Stopped at Fisherman’s mission for lunch, rather greasy, then took R&R back to Glenfinnan. Drove on to Fort William, then spent the night in Crianlarich.
August 2nd: Breakfast at the railway station in Crinalarich. Left at 9.15, then got home at 9.30. Great week.
Skye/Glen Affric/Glen Shiel August 23-30, 2008.
August 23: Up at 5.30, left at 6.30, arrived at Richard’s place about 7.15, a quick transfer of my kit into his car and we were off. For some reason I can remember hardly anything about the journey, probably talking too much. We stopped in Carlisle, where Richard did his shopping for the week. I had done most of mine so felt quite virtuous, & picked up a few bit and bobs. We then carried on North, stopped in Spean Bridge for a meal, then on to Skye, and arrived at Glenbrittle at about 10.30 in the rain and dark. I then had the first grump of the week-while unloading the gear my watch caught the door of Richard’s car and the spindle of my watch came off, and the watch fell to the ground. Fortunately the watch was not damaged, and amazingly I found the spindle the next day and managed to place it back on the watch.
August 24: Nasty weather, cloud very low, Richard sensibly went off to climb Bla Bheinn, I went up Corrie a Ghreadaidh, and went on the ridge then returned to Glenbrittle. A good re introduction to Skye.
August 25: We went to different venues again, Richard attempted Mhic Choinnich. I set off to climb the mountain almost visible from the Youth Hostel, Sgurr Thuilm, but turned round after a) very strong winds and b) rain & hail which soaked me within seconds, I was not wearing my over trousers at the time, a situation which I rectified immediately. I then went on up the corrie to the col below Sgurr Thuilm with the intention of climbing Sgurr a Mhadaidh. As it was a) still raining, b) misty, c) windy, and d) it looked terrifying, I decided to head for the gap at An Dorus and go up Mhadaidh the easy way (from the East) very pleasant and my first top of the week, I then went down to the gap and up the other side and climbed Sgurr a Ghreadaidh, and was on the top at 3.30. I then went on to the lower top after leaving my rucksack. I headed back as the clouds were coming down again, and back to base, got back to Glenbrittle at about 7pm- a beautiful evening. A great day.
August 26: We left Skye and headed to Glen Affric, after restocking on food, and a visit to the Jacobite Café to refuel, we set off walking with big packs at about 12.00. We arrived at the Youth Hostel at about 4.30, where there was a Dutch family in residence, we had some tea, sorted our gear out, dried our wet clothing and then tried to eat all the food we had brought with us, which we managed quite easily. We chatted with the Dutch pere, he asked us what we were doing tomorrow & when we told him, he asked us how many Munros there were-1200 he asked?! Was he taking the ****? Heavens know where he got that figure from. Richard thought this was a trick question. If so, how devious some people can be.
August 27th: We got off early the next day about 8.30, but my pack did not feel much lighter. I opted out of the first top Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan, as I had climbed it some years previously, and cut across the corrie to the col below Ceathreamhnan, and waited for Richard, who I could see walking along the ridge. We met up again at about 10.45, and I left my rucksack at the col after eating and putting all my spare clothes on. The first top was a series of up and down which took ages to get past, and then the weather deteriorated, it started lashing down with rain and visibility was just a few yards. We then started the long drag up to the main summit. We overshot slightly, and had a good view of the lower top. We turned back and were on the main top in a few minutes at about 1.20. We did not longer long there and retraced our steps. Fortunately the weather improved and we collected my rucksack, set off across the corrie to the main ridge and back down to the hut which we reached at about 4.30. We then started the long trudge back to the car which we reached at 8.40. A long day. We drove to the Youth Hostel at Ratagan, fortunately very close by and then started cooking and sorting out the gear. A very late night and I did not sleep too well because of being over tired and some appalling snoring. Ear plugs did not keep the noise out!
Aug 28h: Richard decided to have a rest day. I started off with the intention of climbing Sgurr a Mhaoraich, but after about an hour decided that this was not a good idea and that a rest day was much more sensible. We had lunch at the Jacobite and then went back to Ratagan.
August 29th: Richard decided to have his foot looked at which had been bothering him all week, and drove to Inverness. He dropped me off at Morvich and I decided to do the Five Sisters Ridge. I set off at about 9, got to the end of Gleann Lichd at 10.45, and headed for Bealach an Lapain, which I reached just after lunch at about 1.10. Then I went on to Sgurr nan Spainteach, Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe, Sgurr na Carnach and Sgurr Fhuaran which I reached at 5.25. On the descent from Fhuaran I got into the clear for the first time since leaving Bealach an Lapain, nice to see where I was going at last, but navigation had not been a problem as there was a well worn path all the way. Shame. I skirted Sgurr na Saighead, then on to Beinn Bhuidhe and then to the col above Glen Shiel and then a horribly steep descent to the Glen, followed by a walk through undergrowth to the road bridge at Shiel Bridge. I then walked to Ratagan along the road and arrived there at about 8.45. Another monster day.
August 30th: The start of the long journey home. Left Ratagan at about 8, ridculously heavily laden- one rucksack on my back, one large and one small rucksack in one hand and one holdall in the other. I made painfully slow progress to Shiel Bridge about 1½ miles away, but got there at about 8.45, my T shirt was wringing wet and so I changed it. The bus was on time and we got to Glasgow at about 14.30 after stops in Fort William and Crianlarich. Then a taxi to central station, and the train to London got me into Kings Cross more or less on time, where it felt incredibly hot and sticky. I was home at about 11.00, where the first thing I did after lugging the bags into the sitting room was to dive into the shower. A relief to get all my sweaty clothes off.
A brilliant but very tiring week.
August 24: Nasty weather, cloud very low, Richard sensibly went off to climb Bla Bheinn, I went up Corrie a Ghreadaidh, and went on the ridge then returned to Glenbrittle. A good re introduction to Skye.
August 25: We went to different venues again, Richard attempted Mhic Choinnich. I set off to climb the mountain almost visible from the Youth Hostel, Sgurr Thuilm, but turned round after a) very strong winds and b) rain & hail which soaked me within seconds, I was not wearing my over trousers at the time, a situation which I rectified immediately. I then went on up the corrie to the col below Sgurr Thuilm with the intention of climbing Sgurr a Mhadaidh. As it was a) still raining, b) misty, c) windy, and d) it looked terrifying, I decided to head for the gap at An Dorus and go up Mhadaidh the easy way (from the East) very pleasant and my first top of the week, I then went down to the gap and up the other side and climbed Sgurr a Ghreadaidh, and was on the top at 3.30. I then went on to the lower top after leaving my rucksack. I headed back as the clouds were coming down again, and back to base, got back to Glenbrittle at about 7pm- a beautiful evening. A great day.
August 26: We left Skye and headed to Glen Affric, after restocking on food, and a visit to the Jacobite Café to refuel, we set off walking with big packs at about 12.00. We arrived at the Youth Hostel at about 4.30, where there was a Dutch family in residence, we had some tea, sorted our gear out, dried our wet clothing and then tried to eat all the food we had brought with us, which we managed quite easily. We chatted with the Dutch pere, he asked us what we were doing tomorrow & when we told him, he asked us how many Munros there were-1200 he asked?! Was he taking the ****? Heavens know where he got that figure from. Richard thought this was a trick question. If so, how devious some people can be.
August 27th: We got off early the next day about 8.30, but my pack did not feel much lighter. I opted out of the first top Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan, as I had climbed it some years previously, and cut across the corrie to the col below Ceathreamhnan, and waited for Richard, who I could see walking along the ridge. We met up again at about 10.45, and I left my rucksack at the col after eating and putting all my spare clothes on. The first top was a series of up and down which took ages to get past, and then the weather deteriorated, it started lashing down with rain and visibility was just a few yards. We then started the long drag up to the main summit. We overshot slightly, and had a good view of the lower top. We turned back and were on the main top in a few minutes at about 1.20. We did not longer long there and retraced our steps. Fortunately the weather improved and we collected my rucksack, set off across the corrie to the main ridge and back down to the hut which we reached at about 4.30. We then started the long trudge back to the car which we reached at 8.40. A long day. We drove to the Youth Hostel at Ratagan, fortunately very close by and then started cooking and sorting out the gear. A very late night and I did not sleep too well because of being over tired and some appalling snoring. Ear plugs did not keep the noise out!
Aug 28h: Richard decided to have a rest day. I started off with the intention of climbing Sgurr a Mhaoraich, but after about an hour decided that this was not a good idea and that a rest day was much more sensible. We had lunch at the Jacobite and then went back to Ratagan.
August 29th: Richard decided to have his foot looked at which had been bothering him all week, and drove to Inverness. He dropped me off at Morvich and I decided to do the Five Sisters Ridge. I set off at about 9, got to the end of Gleann Lichd at 10.45, and headed for Bealach an Lapain, which I reached just after lunch at about 1.10. Then I went on to Sgurr nan Spainteach, Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe, Sgurr na Carnach and Sgurr Fhuaran which I reached at 5.25. On the descent from Fhuaran I got into the clear for the first time since leaving Bealach an Lapain, nice to see where I was going at last, but navigation had not been a problem as there was a well worn path all the way. Shame. I skirted Sgurr na Saighead, then on to Beinn Bhuidhe and then to the col above Glen Shiel and then a horribly steep descent to the Glen, followed by a walk through undergrowth to the road bridge at Shiel Bridge. I then walked to Ratagan along the road and arrived there at about 8.45. Another monster day.
August 30th: The start of the long journey home. Left Ratagan at about 8, ridculously heavily laden- one rucksack on my back, one large and one small rucksack in one hand and one holdall in the other. I made painfully slow progress to Shiel Bridge about 1½ miles away, but got there at about 8.45, my T shirt was wringing wet and so I changed it. The bus was on time and we got to Glasgow at about 14.30 after stops in Fort William and Crianlarich. Then a taxi to central station, and the train to London got me into Kings Cross more or less on time, where it felt incredibly hot and sticky. I was home at about 11.00, where the first thing I did after lugging the bags into the sitting room was to dive into the shower. A relief to get all my sweaty clothes off.
A brilliant but very tiring week.
Sunday 15 November 2009
Knoydart, October 19-25, 2008.
October 19: The accommodation at Glenfinnan did not work out, so I abandoned the plan to travel up by train, and I travelled up by car on the Sunday instead, after doing some painting in the staircase of my flat on the Saturday. I left my newly decorated flat at 9.10, stopped in Carlisle to do some shopping. I crossed the border at 4.15, it then started raining and continued all the way to Fort William. I thought this was a bit much, but it was positively arid compared to the conditions on the return journey. I spent the night at Calluna, where I found a party of Poles who were proposing to ascend BenNevis without the benefit of map or compass. They were planning on using a Sat Nav (!) to get them to the top. I suggested that this was not very sensible, and that they were not properly equipped for Britain's highest mountain. I hope they decided to alter their plans.
October 20: October 20: Left Fort William at 8.15 on an awful morning, arrived at Mallaig at 9.20. Very strong winds and I was quite concerned to see waves breaking over the walls on the way North. I was hit by an incredibly strong squall just after parking the car. I was assured by the locals this was little more than a breeze, and sure enough the boat sailed on time and I arrived at Inverie at 11.00. I was met by Christine from the Old Byre. I went straight there, got organized then back to the village to find out where the deer stalking was taking place and headed off for Sgurr nan Choinnechean at 1.15 via the Mam Uidhe. Reached the foot of the final ridge to be hit by a heavy shower of rain and hail. By the time I had made the summit it had cleared and I had a good view of Ladhar Bheinn which was in the clear as well. I returned over some very wet ground to the path and was back at 7.
October 21: Up at 7, then at first light, about 8, the day looked terrific, so decided to hear for Sgurr na Ciche. Rang the stalkers, no reply from one, other number was unobtainable, so set off at 8.45. On top of the pass at 11.20. I had a superb view of Sgurr Na Ciche, which looked terrific, felt that things were looking good. Headed for the base of the ridge across a rickety plank bridge and across some boggy flat ground. Had lunch on the start of the ridge when it started to rain and hail. Decided to abandon the expedition and headed to Sourlies for lunch in the dry. Set off at 2, reached the top of the pass at 4.20 in nasty weather, back to the Byre at 7.
October 22: Up at 7. A good morning, so decided to head for Beinn Buidhe. Set off at about 9.00 , walked past Kilchoan, then along the beach to the foot of the ridge. I had to cross a deer fence then slogged up a very steep slope, and eventually reached Loch Bhramisaig at about 11.00. It was very cold and put on a few more layers, then headed SE on to the main ridge, and then reached the first top. The weather then closed in, cloud base down, and very wet, headed for Sgurr nan Gobhar. Crossed some very confusing ground decided to by pass Gabhar, and headed straight for the bealach which led to Beinn Buidhe. At the bealach, I decided to abandon and headed down towards Gleann Meadail. After about 15 minutes I was in clear air, crossed 2 more deer fences, down to the Glen and home. Everything wet when I stripped off, a good job the Byre had an efficient drying room. I felt a bit off colour that evening. I had great trouble getting warm, and I put all my layers on plus the duvet from the bed, and was just warm enough.
October 23: It seemed as if the weather had decided not to mess about with having wet and dry spells and went for the simple approach-rain all day. Awful weather forecast, very strong winds forecast up to about 80 mph in addition to the rain. Decided to head for a low lying hill Ron na Beinne. I set off from the Foundation Office at 11.30, after leaving a route card with them. I am sure they thought I was quite mad. I walked along the road for about an hour, then branched off and climbed on to a broad, flat ridge, then head for the Scottas Burn which I followed on its W Bank to a col, then over a bump and then the final pull on to the summit block, then on to the summit. Fortunately the trig point was quite substantial and so I managed to get some shelter from the amazingly strong wind. Going back by my ascent route was impossible due to the winds so headed down by the North ridge, very steep, which at least meant that I got out of the wind quickly. About halfway down I came across a huge boulder which made a perfect wind break, a good spot for lunch. I then headed for the Sandaig Burn and followed it to the road, but not before I met yet another deer fence, but I was fortunately able to follow it down to the road and then back to village at about 4. A great adventure. I rang Tommy at the Foundation Office to tell him I was back safely but I saw him that evening in the pub anyway.
October 24: Up at 7, packed up, Christine came round and we had a bit of a chat. I left at 9,30 and walked to the village, bought some cards at the Foundation Office and then back to the Pottery Tearoom, where I found out that the afternoon ferry crossing has been cancelled as Force 10 winds had been forecast-I had originally planned on catching it, just as well I had changed my plan. I posted the cards so they had the prized Knoydart postmark, but made a faux pas - the box was being emptied as I posted them, so that they would not go until Monday. never mind. The crossing was pretty rough, especially when we got close to Mallaig, with spray coming over the bows. I did some shopping in Mallaig, then headed towards Glenfinnan. I stopped at the Visitor Centre and had some soup and coffee as I was feeling really cold. I then stopped at the approach to Gulvain and walked for 2k along the path and turned round at Wauchan with tantalising views of the SW summit. I then drove on to Banavie and walked along the Caledonian Canal, the venue for the next venture. A bit dull, very long straight bits with the occasional bend. I turned round after about 45 minutes, and got soaked by another violent lengthy shower just as I had reached the car. I headed off to Spean Bridge, had something to eat, then on to Tulloch Station lodge where I spent the night.
October 25: Raining hard again, with winds gusting up to 120 mph, I was not hat disappointed to be leaving. I left at 9.40, stopped at Dave Pogson’s house at about 10.45, had a long chat, then set off at 11.30, driving quite slowly through the wind and rain, quite intimidating at times as the wind was so strong. The rain eventually stopped just short of Birmingham, and the rest of the journey was quite pleasant, quite a novelty to be able to see out of wing mirrors. I got home at about 11pm.
A great trip.
Saturday 14 November 2009
Dundonnell August 18-26, 2007.
August 18: Eventually left home at about 11.30, latest departure ever, only to turn round about 15 minutes later after 15 minutes to collect some essential supplies, then took the long route to the Motorway, or to put it another way, I got lost. Eventually I got on the A4, then on the road north, always a good feeling. I crossed the border at about 6, latest ever, then put my foot down, and arrived in Pitlochry, my overnight stop at about 8.45. I checked in and tried to find something to eat. This proved difficult, everywhere seemed to be shut, or to have stopped serving. Well after all it was the outlandish hour of 9pm, what did I expect. I eventually found an Indian takeaway for which I gave thanks after getting over the first grump of the week.
August 19: I did not hang around in Pitlochry, and was on the road by 8.30, a bit more like it, and passed DP's house at about 9. I turned off, but decided not to visit, as it was a wee bit early still. In hindsight, this turned out out to be a good decision. I stopped in Inverness for some last minute shopping and petrol, and carried on North, and reached Braemore Junction at about 12, and started getting ready for the hills, which was a rather lengthy process as the back of the car was jam packed with gear. I eventually got going at about 12.45, and headed round the north shore of Loch a Bhraoin, then at the head of the loch started the week's first real climbing, reached the summit of A' Chailleach, then on to Sgurr Breac, then down to the col, and back to the car at about 8. Then on to Dundonnell and Badrallach, my home for the next week. I eventually got the tent up, opened the beer, started cooking, and all seemed well with my world-no midges.
August 20: Eididh nan Clach Geala, Sgurr nan Ceapraichean: A slightly late(ish) start due to unpromising weather. I was getting myself organised when the owner of a nearby house asked me if if I was the electrician! Mmmm. I set off in unpromising weather, but no rain, on a decent path, but I was too low, so I had to scramble over a fence and then slog up the hillside through thick heather. Grump #2 ensued caused by navigation error. Eventually I got on the ridge and arrived at the summit at 2.20. I then headed for the next summit, Meall nan Ceapraichean, which took 2 hours, very steep and rocky, and I reached the top in cloud, first time this trip, which for some reason took me by surprise. I then took the path down, in the rain and the prospect of a soggy camp site did not appeal, and I felt quite depressed at the prospect. However I later found that we could cook in the accommodation building on the camp site - the Bothy-and everyone else was doing the same, so a jolly evening followed.
August 21: Weather had still not improved in the morning, so a very late start. I decided to head for The Fannichs, a range to the south, to do the 2 Munros left over from my last visit. I did not start until 12 (!), and headed for An Coileachan and Meall Gorm. I skirted round the base of Ben Liath Mor Fannnich, and headed for Loch Li, over some very rough heathery ground, and then after the loch, very steep slopes. I reached the main ridge just before 5, and reached the first top, Meall Gorm, just after 5pm. I then headed for An Coileachan, and reached the summit at 6.10, then back to the bealach, and the long trudge back to the car, which I reached at 8.40, then drove back in damp and misty conditions.
August 22/23: Up early. Was this the stunning weather we had been promised for the last few days? Not a promising start as the mist was right down to sea level, but it could be sea fret. I got ready and left at about 8am for another drive through the mist, but it magically cleared with stunning views to the West, so it had to be Fisherfield. While getting ready at Corrie Hallie, I overheard a conversation, one man was talking about the difficulties of crossing the stream at Shenavall. He said that on one occasion it was "a raging and a roaring". I left with this typically optimistic view ringing in my ears. I left Corrie Hallie at 8.45, and was across the river and at the base of the first top at 11.30. A long trudge with a lunch break en route, plus one very rocky section and I was on top of Beinn a Chladheim at 2.20. I was then on the ridge, one slight "problem" was that I had no sunglasses, and as I was walking South, I was heading straight into the dazzling sun, an unusual problem in Scotland. I headed on to Sgurr Ban, and Mullach Coir Mhic Fhearcair, and then a long descent to the fourth top, Beinn Tarsuinn, which I reached at about 6. I then descended below a ridge leading from the summit and then down a descent gully where I managed to refill my water bottle. I then carried on down to a very wet and, alas low col. I started the long drag up to the next top, A' Mgaidhean. After some time, I saw some deer on the summit ridge who seemed miles away. At about 7.15pm, I had the presence of mind to ring the camp site owners and tell them I would not be back that evening. I eventually reached the summit at about 9, with the light starting to fail. I then removed some of my sweaty clothes, dried them and put them back on, not too uncomfortable. I descended carefully in the gathering gloom to the next bealach, taking the easiest angled slopes I could find. I was alarmed to see some very steep cliffs below the summit of the next top Ruadh Stac Mor, and decided to bivouac at the base of the crags.
I then settled down for the night. I dropped off almost instantly-I must have been really tired; I woke up about midnight, then slept again until 1.0 am. That was the end of my sleep, but I had a great night, the stars were a wonderful sight, and the moon looked huge. At about 4.00 am the sky started to lighten, although it had never been totally dark. I could see the outline of the ridge I had come down from the previous evening quite clearly all through the night. I explored the area and was relieved to see a path leading through the crags. I set off at 5.15 am, and was on the the top (the last) at 5.45, to see a fantastic sunrise. I left the summit at 6, and then started the long walk back to civilisation. I replenished my water supply and tried to ignore the fact that I had not eaten since 9 the previous evening. After descending some very steep ground, I got onto a stalkers path, and then headed for the bothy at Shenavall. This involved crossing 2 very deep streams, boots off, shoes on, with a bog in between the two for good measure, then I was attacked by some gorse on the river bank. This route certainly had everything! I was in the bothy at 10, which was empty, but some people were clearly staying there, but not me! I left the bothy at 10, and then started the long trek to the road on a very boggy path, which was quite steep to begin with, which reduced my slow pace to a crawl. I reached the junction with the path about 2 hours later, which I had last been on about 26 hours earlier. I celebrated with my last remaining food, a sandwich from yesterday which I could not face until now. I passed a few people coming in the opposite direction, then after a toilet stop, finally reached the car, a sight which I had been hallucinating about for some time. A quick change,then on to the Dundonnell Hotel, and had my first meal for some time.
The circuit of the Fisherfield Munros took me about 15 hours (about 10 1/2 hours to the bivvy under Ruadh Stac Mor), then 4 3/4 hours to the to Shenavall. The walk in and out an additional 5 3/4 hours, an amazing expedition.
August 24: Felt surprisingly refreshed after a long sleep-a good morning, so I set off for my remaining 3 peaks in the area. I arrived at Inverlael at about 9.30, and had been walking for about 10 minutes when I was given a lift to the end of the track. Excellent. I started on the main route up the glen which was very windy and cold. I headed for Beinn Dearg which was in the cloud and followed the enormous wall and then went through a gap in the wall to the summit, which I reached at about 2pm. I had lunch, then back to the col and then on to Cona Meall, which was also in the cloud, up some rocky ground, then round the lip of the corrie to the summit, which proved to be the last one of the trip. Then back to the col, for the third visit of the day! I descended by the path I had used on the ascent, and the cloud was now very low. I reached the end of the path and was about to enter the forest when I saw the man who had given me a lift up in the morning. He kindly gave me a lift back to the road, and was back at the car at 6.45, and cooked in the daylight, which was a big bonus.
August 25: I looked out of the tent doors and decided it was not a Seana Bhraigh day, my last remaining Munro in the area. I decided that a day away from the mountains would be a good idea, so I hired a bike from the camp site, and cycled to Scoraig up the coast. I was also attracted by the news that they were holding a air which presumably meant FOOD! I eventually arrived there after descending some extremely steep paths-walking would have probably been better-and found the place rather too hippyish for my liking, so I made the return journey after a short stay. I packed up the unfortunately wet tent, and headed south to Aviemore, to find motorcyclists everywhere. Quite a contrast to Badrallach. I managed to get moved out of a room which had two motorcyclists in it, and fortunately had a good night.
August 26: Left at a reasonable time and headed down the A9 for Dalwhinnie. I wrote and posted some postcards, and then called in on DP in Dalnaspidal. There was no sign of his car outside either of the two houses, I then went over to the Lodge, but did not feel that was D's house, called on his neighbour who told me he had gone out. I was just walking back to my car when the man himself drove up. I had an excellent cup of coffee, exchanged chat, then headed south, an uneventful, though long, journey, and was back home at 9.30pm. A good end to an excellent trip.
August 19: I did not hang around in Pitlochry, and was on the road by 8.30, a bit more like it, and passed DP's house at about 9. I turned off, but decided not to visit, as it was a wee bit early still. In hindsight, this turned out out to be a good decision. I stopped in Inverness for some last minute shopping and petrol, and carried on North, and reached Braemore Junction at about 12, and started getting ready for the hills, which was a rather lengthy process as the back of the car was jam packed with gear. I eventually got going at about 12.45, and headed round the north shore of Loch a Bhraoin, then at the head of the loch started the week's first real climbing, reached the summit of A' Chailleach, then on to Sgurr Breac, then down to the col, and back to the car at about 8. Then on to Dundonnell and Badrallach, my home for the next week. I eventually got the tent up, opened the beer, started cooking, and all seemed well with my world-no midges.
August 20: Eididh nan Clach Geala, Sgurr nan Ceapraichean: A slightly late(ish) start due to unpromising weather. I was getting myself organised when the owner of a nearby house asked me if if I was the electrician! Mmmm. I set off in unpromising weather, but no rain, on a decent path, but I was too low, so I had to scramble over a fence and then slog up the hillside through thick heather. Grump #2 ensued caused by navigation error. Eventually I got on the ridge and arrived at the summit at 2.20. I then headed for the next summit, Meall nan Ceapraichean, which took 2 hours, very steep and rocky, and I reached the top in cloud, first time this trip, which for some reason took me by surprise. I then took the path down, in the rain and the prospect of a soggy camp site did not appeal, and I felt quite depressed at the prospect. However I later found that we could cook in the accommodation building on the camp site - the Bothy-and everyone else was doing the same, so a jolly evening followed.
August 21: Weather had still not improved in the morning, so a very late start. I decided to head for The Fannichs, a range to the south, to do the 2 Munros left over from my last visit. I did not start until 12 (!), and headed for An Coileachan and Meall Gorm. I skirted round the base of Ben Liath Mor Fannnich, and headed for Loch Li, over some very rough heathery ground, and then after the loch, very steep slopes. I reached the main ridge just before 5, and reached the first top, Meall Gorm, just after 5pm. I then headed for An Coileachan, and reached the summit at 6.10, then back to the bealach, and the long trudge back to the car, which I reached at 8.40, then drove back in damp and misty conditions.
August 22/23: Up early. Was this the stunning weather we had been promised for the last few days? Not a promising start as the mist was right down to sea level, but it could be sea fret. I got ready and left at about 8am for another drive through the mist, but it magically cleared with stunning views to the West, so it had to be Fisherfield. While getting ready at Corrie Hallie, I overheard a conversation, one man was talking about the difficulties of crossing the stream at Shenavall. He said that on one occasion it was "a raging and a roaring". I left with this typically optimistic view ringing in my ears. I left Corrie Hallie at 8.45, and was across the river and at the base of the first top at 11.30. A long trudge with a lunch break en route, plus one very rocky section and I was on top of Beinn a Chladheim at 2.20. I was then on the ridge, one slight "problem" was that I had no sunglasses, and as I was walking South, I was heading straight into the dazzling sun, an unusual problem in Scotland. I headed on to Sgurr Ban, and Mullach Coir Mhic Fhearcair, and then a long descent to the fourth top, Beinn Tarsuinn, which I reached at about 6. I then descended below a ridge leading from the summit and then down a descent gully where I managed to refill my water bottle. I then carried on down to a very wet and, alas low col. I started the long drag up to the next top, A' Mgaidhean. After some time, I saw some deer on the summit ridge who seemed miles away. At about 7.15pm, I had the presence of mind to ring the camp site owners and tell them I would not be back that evening. I eventually reached the summit at about 9, with the light starting to fail. I then removed some of my sweaty clothes, dried them and put them back on, not too uncomfortable. I descended carefully in the gathering gloom to the next bealach, taking the easiest angled slopes I could find. I was alarmed to see some very steep cliffs below the summit of the next top Ruadh Stac Mor, and decided to bivouac at the base of the crags.
I then settled down for the night. I dropped off almost instantly-I must have been really tired; I woke up about midnight, then slept again until 1.0 am. That was the end of my sleep, but I had a great night, the stars were a wonderful sight, and the moon looked huge. At about 4.00 am the sky started to lighten, although it had never been totally dark. I could see the outline of the ridge I had come down from the previous evening quite clearly all through the night. I explored the area and was relieved to see a path leading through the crags. I set off at 5.15 am, and was on the the top (the last) at 5.45, to see a fantastic sunrise. I left the summit at 6, and then started the long walk back to civilisation. I replenished my water supply and tried to ignore the fact that I had not eaten since 9 the previous evening. After descending some very steep ground, I got onto a stalkers path, and then headed for the bothy at Shenavall. This involved crossing 2 very deep streams, boots off, shoes on, with a bog in between the two for good measure, then I was attacked by some gorse on the river bank. This route certainly had everything! I was in the bothy at 10, which was empty, but some people were clearly staying there, but not me! I left the bothy at 10, and then started the long trek to the road on a very boggy path, which was quite steep to begin with, which reduced my slow pace to a crawl. I reached the junction with the path about 2 hours later, which I had last been on about 26 hours earlier. I celebrated with my last remaining food, a sandwich from yesterday which I could not face until now. I passed a few people coming in the opposite direction, then after a toilet stop, finally reached the car, a sight which I had been hallucinating about for some time. A quick change,then on to the Dundonnell Hotel, and had my first meal for some time.
The circuit of the Fisherfield Munros took me about 15 hours (about 10 1/2 hours to the bivvy under Ruadh Stac Mor), then 4 3/4 hours to the to Shenavall. The walk in and out an additional 5 3/4 hours, an amazing expedition.
August 24: Felt surprisingly refreshed after a long sleep-a good morning, so I set off for my remaining 3 peaks in the area. I arrived at Inverlael at about 9.30, and had been walking for about 10 minutes when I was given a lift to the end of the track. Excellent. I started on the main route up the glen which was very windy and cold. I headed for Beinn Dearg which was in the cloud and followed the enormous wall and then went through a gap in the wall to the summit, which I reached at about 2pm. I had lunch, then back to the col and then on to Cona Meall, which was also in the cloud, up some rocky ground, then round the lip of the corrie to the summit, which proved to be the last one of the trip. Then back to the col, for the third visit of the day! I descended by the path I had used on the ascent, and the cloud was now very low. I reached the end of the path and was about to enter the forest when I saw the man who had given me a lift up in the morning. He kindly gave me a lift back to the road, and was back at the car at 6.45, and cooked in the daylight, which was a big bonus.
August 25: I looked out of the tent doors and decided it was not a Seana Bhraigh day, my last remaining Munro in the area. I decided that a day away from the mountains would be a good idea, so I hired a bike from the camp site, and cycled to Scoraig up the coast. I was also attracted by the news that they were holding a air which presumably meant FOOD! I eventually arrived there after descending some extremely steep paths-walking would have probably been better-and found the place rather too hippyish for my liking, so I made the return journey after a short stay. I packed up the unfortunately wet tent, and headed south to Aviemore, to find motorcyclists everywhere. Quite a contrast to Badrallach. I managed to get moved out of a room which had two motorcyclists in it, and fortunately had a good night.
August 26: Left at a reasonable time and headed down the A9 for Dalwhinnie. I wrote and posted some postcards, and then called in on DP in Dalnaspidal. There was no sign of his car outside either of the two houses, I then went over to the Lodge, but did not feel that was D's house, called on his neighbour who told me he had gone out. I was just walking back to my car when the man himself drove up. I had an excellent cup of coffee, exchanged chat, then headed south, an uneventful, though long, journey, and was back home at 9.30pm. A good end to an excellent trip.
Sunday 8 November 2009
Pennine Way, October 27-November 2, 2007.
October 27: Travelled up minus Vaughan and Mark to enjoy the last week end before the clocks changed. Unfortunately rucksack rather heavy, about 35 pounds-I had to take the large one even though I had an absolute minimum of food. An uneventful train journey - the train was reasonably empty. I escaped to the quiet coach for most of the trip to get away from the mobile phone brigade. After a quick change in Newcastle, I arrived in Haltwistle at about 5.20. I then started walking, partly on roads and paths, and arrived at Once Brewed at about 7.15. I asked what time the pub stopped serving food, to be told that it would not be "before 8" which meant a bit of a scramble. When I got there, I discovered that they served food until 9, so panic over. I had a good meal, and then prepared for the rigours of tomorrow.
October 28: I set off at about 9.30, and made reasonably good time along Hadrians Wall, and arrived on the outskirts of Greenhead at about lunch time. I then skirted around the edge of the golf course, crossed a very busy road, and I was then on fairly featureless moorland. I got diverted and took a long dog leg to the east, then a little bit on the road, then crossed the Hartley Burn after a lot of up and down, and then on to less hilly ground. However I was now running out of time as it was now 5pm and beginning to get dark. I rang the place I was staying at and told them I would be late. I started walking down the road, then it started to rain, then it poured down, someone in a 4x4 or of similar size stopped and offered me a lift. I accepted gladly and resolved not to criticise the owners of such vehicles for a while, however I this did not last long. Anyway they took me into Slaggyford, my destination for the evening.
October 29: I went on a disused railway line for a while and then joined the PW. I then went on a strange roundabout route and then walked into Alston and topped up my supplies. I then carried on to Garigill, and arrived there in good time. I was convinced I had booked into the Post office, but here was complete confusion on the owner's face. I walked down the main street and passed a B&B, wondering where to stay and and saw a note to me in the window. Obviously there had been some foul up over the booking. I eventually mad contact with the owner who was out when I arrived. I went out to the local pub for a meal that night. I did not feel that well later, probably the result of carrying a heavy rucksack and a long day yesterday.
Oct 30: I set off after a huge breakfast, still not feeling that great, and headed for Cross Fell, a beautiful day. I started the drag up to the top, and seemed to be going OK. I had lunch in Greg's hut with the weather deteriorating fast. I made it to the summit in zero visibility. I then had a massive navigational foul up, I managed to get completely lost, eventually sorted myself out, and got to Great Dun Fell with the hideous mast on top. I started off down the road and for Knock Old Man in awful weather, then made yet another navigational error, should have headed SW, but didn't....I soon realised my mistake and got on the right track just as night was fall ling. I lost height and got into Dufton, hardly any lights in the village but soon found the YH. The bad news was that the pub was shut, but the warden kindly made me some food.
October 31: I set off from Dufton for High Cup Nick, a long drag but the wait was worth it, a really spectacular place. I then cut across country along Maize Beck, but my feet were killing me, I could not work out why, they were boiling hot, took my boots off and the insoles out. Magic instant relief. I joined the main road at Langdon Beck, unfortunately I could not get into the YH or the hotel, so had to stay at the High Force Hotel, a pretty awful place, but I was past caring, and ate there that night.
November 1: I walked down the road and joined the PW, then walked up to where I had left it the previous night. I paused, turned round round, passed a quarry, then looked at High Force, quite spectacular. I then walked on a really pleasant path by the river almost the whole way, cut across some fields, almost made a wrong turning, and then reached the end of the path. I then passed a cattle market, and walked into Middleton in Teesdale and found my B&B quite easily, Brunswick House, a fabulous place.
November 2: Caught the bus to Darlington, then the train south. A good trip in spite of the heavy rucksack.
October 28: I set off at about 9.30, and made reasonably good time along Hadrians Wall, and arrived on the outskirts of Greenhead at about lunch time. I then skirted around the edge of the golf course, crossed a very busy road, and I was then on fairly featureless moorland. I got diverted and took a long dog leg to the east, then a little bit on the road, then crossed the Hartley Burn after a lot of up and down, and then on to less hilly ground. However I was now running out of time as it was now 5pm and beginning to get dark. I rang the place I was staying at and told them I would be late. I started walking down the road, then it started to rain, then it poured down, someone in a 4x4 or of similar size stopped and offered me a lift. I accepted gladly and resolved not to criticise the owners of such vehicles for a while, however I this did not last long. Anyway they took me into Slaggyford, my destination for the evening.
October 29: I went on a disused railway line for a while and then joined the PW. I then went on a strange roundabout route and then walked into Alston and topped up my supplies. I then carried on to Garigill, and arrived there in good time. I was convinced I had booked into the Post office, but here was complete confusion on the owner's face. I walked down the main street and passed a B&B, wondering where to stay and and saw a note to me in the window. Obviously there had been some foul up over the booking. I eventually mad contact with the owner who was out when I arrived. I went out to the local pub for a meal that night. I did not feel that well later, probably the result of carrying a heavy rucksack and a long day yesterday.
Oct 30: I set off after a huge breakfast, still not feeling that great, and headed for Cross Fell, a beautiful day. I started the drag up to the top, and seemed to be going OK. I had lunch in Greg's hut with the weather deteriorating fast. I made it to the summit in zero visibility. I then had a massive navigational foul up, I managed to get completely lost, eventually sorted myself out, and got to Great Dun Fell with the hideous mast on top. I started off down the road and for Knock Old Man in awful weather, then made yet another navigational error, should have headed SW, but didn't....I soon realised my mistake and got on the right track just as night was fall ling. I lost height and got into Dufton, hardly any lights in the village but soon found the YH. The bad news was that the pub was shut, but the warden kindly made me some food.
October 31: I set off from Dufton for High Cup Nick, a long drag but the wait was worth it, a really spectacular place. I then cut across country along Maize Beck, but my feet were killing me, I could not work out why, they were boiling hot, took my boots off and the insoles out. Magic instant relief. I joined the main road at Langdon Beck, unfortunately I could not get into the YH or the hotel, so had to stay at the High Force Hotel, a pretty awful place, but I was past caring, and ate there that night.
November 1: I walked down the road and joined the PW, then walked up to where I had left it the previous night. I paused, turned round round, passed a quarry, then looked at High Force, quite spectacular. I then walked on a really pleasant path by the river almost the whole way, cut across some fields, almost made a wrong turning, and then reached the end of the path. I then passed a cattle market, and walked into Middleton in Teesdale and found my B&B quite easily, Brunswick House, a fabulous place.
November 2: Caught the bus to Darlington, then the train south. A good trip in spite of the heavy rucksack.
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