March 15: Left home at 10.30, and the day developed into a shopping trip-stopped off in Carlisle and then again in Perth, getting very forgetful. I then spent the night in Wester Caputh just north of Perth.
March 16: Left Perth at about 9.00, then had another bout of shopping at Pitlochry, arrived at Cluanie at about 11.30. After some faffing trying to decide the best place to park, I left the car by the Cluanie. I set off at 11.45 for Aonach Mheadhoin, and reached the first snow at 500 metres. I then headed for the summit via Sgurr an Fhuarail, and reached the top at 2.30. I met two people, Richard & Barry, who were also staying at Ratagan coming in the opposite direction. I then carried on to Sgurr a Bhealaich Dheirg, which took ages, due to deep snow and poor visibility. I reached the summit at 4.50, about 2k from the previous top. The summit cairn was a big one. I then carried along the N.E. ridge which was very narrow, when it gained height, I took the easy way out, and dropped down to the East where I ploughed on through some deep snow. I then ascended to the bealach, then walked some distance along it, then headed South towards the Cluanie, made it back to the car at 8.00pm, then on to Ratagan, where I saw none other than Mark Smith in the Dining Room.
March 17: An attempt on the South Cluanie Ridge. I debated whether to do the whole ridge in one go, or in several portions. I decided to see how things progressed. I parked at the Cluanie and set off at 9.30. I made good time on an excellent track, in fact the old road to Tomdoun, now interrupted by the flooded Loch Loyne. I left the track and headed up a well marked path up the SE ridge of Creag a Mhaim, which I reached at 12.55. I had some lunch in the sun, then headed on to Drum Shionnaich, then Aonach Air Chrith, which was a reallly spectacular summit, which required a sharp turn to the SW. Then on to Maol Chin Dearg, which I reached at 5.00. I decided to call it a day there, and descended back to the Glen, a very quick descent, back at the road at 6.30, then a 40 minute walk back along the road, and back at the Cluanie at 7.10.
March 18: Left the car a short disatnce W of where I came down yesterday. I set off at 9.10. A bit of a grim start as it was snowing. I ascended by yesterday's descent-a bit of a grind, but got to the top at 12.15. I joined the ridge and and dropped down to Sgurr Coire na Feinne, then on to Sgurr an Doire Leathain, the first munro of the day. I had some difficulty finding the summit as it was some way along the northern spur of the ridge. Then on to Sgurr an Lochain (no 250), then descended to the col below Sgurr Beag, descned to the road, back at the car at 5.20.
March 19: Set off at 9.10 forthe first top of the day, Faochag, an unremitting slog, very hard going up very steep ground, then carried on to Sgurr na Signe, and had lunch just below the summit. I descended to the south on bare rock, tricky with crampons on, then NE to the col just below Sgurr a Bhac Chaolais, then ascended steeply to its summit. I then made for the bealach, then on the long ridge to Creag nan Damh, the last top of the Cluanie ridge. There were about 6 false summits on the ridge, plus a very exciting descent from the last bump on the ridge to the summit. I descended to the north after clearing the summit crags, then ascended Sgurr a Chuilin, then doown some very steep ground to the NW, and back to the car with no walking along the road. The end of the South Cluanie Ridge after 3 days!
March 20: Lousy weather, so took a rest day, went into Kyle, a pretty dreary place, then on to Eilean Dolan, then over the Mam Ratagan to Glenelg where the ferry to Skye had just started up. I drove a little way back, then walked along the beach. I then went back to Ratagan via Glenelg, and then investigated the camp site at Moyle.
March 21: Set off from Morvich, and geared up at the car park as it was raining. I walked down Glen Licht and then past the hut at the end of the glen. I crossed the river (burn?) by a new bridge, the old one had collapsed at a slightly drunken angle. I headed for Camban on a suoerb path, although uphill. I left the path at some waterfalls, and spent some time avoiding crags. It might have been better to have stayed on the path a bit longer, and avoid the crags and doubled back, but ran out of patience as usual. I then headed in the direction of Saileag, up the south ridge. A bit of up and down in trying weather, very windy, felt cold in spite of having all my layers on. I put my crampons on when the incline allowed, and made the summit at 2.10. I headed towards the col, and faffed around trying to find the best descent route. I got to the lowest part of the col, then descended without difficulty. I reached ground free of snow, which was absolutely saturated. I reached Glen Licht House, then headed back along the path I had walked down earlier in the day. I was walking into a head wind and it was snowing-I felt quite intrepid. I got back to the car at 5.50, an excellent day, although a bit trying at times.
March 22: Home day, set off home, good conditions, no traffic jams, but a long drive home.
Sunday, 22 November 2009
Laggan/Glenfinnan/Knoydart July 26-August 2, 2008.
July 26: Drove north, arrived South Laggan at 9.45, a very hot evening.
July 27: Sgurr Mor. Drove along Loch Arkaig, parked at the road end. Long drive, not much room to park, but set off at about 10.30. Took a wrong turn at first, and went on an endless path through the forest. Realised my error, and walked back to the junction of the paths. Got onto the right track and got on track behind Glen Dessary House, then dropped into Glen Kingie. Followed the stalkers path to the col between An Eag & Sgurr Beag. Carried on up to Sgurr Mor, reached the summit at 6.30 in cloud and put my jersey on for the first time. Then descended to the col below Sgurr an Fhuarain, dropped down into Glen Kingie again then retraced my steps to Strathan & the car, which I reached at 9.45, still full light, reached the bunk house at 10.45. The first of many late nights.
July 28: Drove to Fort William to buy new headtorch, then on to Glenfinnan. Boiling hot day, chatted with a couple in the car park, then set off at 11.30, on top of Sgurr Thuilm at 3.30, then on to Sgurr nan Coireachan by the ridge, which I reached at 6.15. Then started the descent back to the Glen, ran out of water & coffee on the descent, went without fluid for 40 minutes, not pleasant, back to the car at 9.25, then drove on to Mallaig. Ghastly night in a dreadul hostel, never again, resolved to write a letter of complaint.
July 29: Took the morning ferry to Inverie, stayed at the Knoydart Foundation Bunkhouse. Let the Bunkhouse at 12.30 for Ladhar Bheinn. Walked through the village, then on Glen Guiserein, then up Corrie an Asgaill. Joined the ridge East of the summit, then on to the summit at 6.35, dropped down to the Glen then retraced my steps, arrived back at the bunkhouse at 10.30.
July 30: Set off at 9.45, walked to Mam Barrisdale, then had lunch at 1pm, just beyond the Mam. Cloud closed in at about 2, reached the summit of Luinne Bheinn at 3, then went on to Meall Buidhe, long way, lots of up & down, in cloud all the way, reached the top at 6.30, descended by the ridge, took ages to get off the end of the ridge to the river. Back to bunkhouse at 10.30.
July 31st: Set off at 8.30, v. wet morning, headed for the Mam again, The rain stopped at 9.00 a.m. Reached top of pass at midday. Reached summit at 2.00pm, left at 2.30, headed back to Mam, by the route I had used up yesterday. Had major feet problem on the way back, really hurting, took both boots off bathed them in a stream, beautiful, but had massive blisters on both heels. Stopped to look at the Brocket Memorial, it took some effort to get to it, absolutely huge, room to stand up inside it! Got back to the bunkhouse at 7.45.
August 1st: Stopped at pottery shop for coffee & sandwiches with Raquel & Richard, caught the morning ferry, raining, then back to Mallaig at 11.30. Stopped at Fisherman’s mission for lunch, rather greasy, then took R&R back to Glenfinnan. Drove on to Fort William, then spent the night in Crianlarich.
August 2nd: Breakfast at the railway station in Crinalarich. Left at 9.15, then got home at 9.30. Great week.
July 27: Sgurr Mor. Drove along Loch Arkaig, parked at the road end. Long drive, not much room to park, but set off at about 10.30. Took a wrong turn at first, and went on an endless path through the forest. Realised my error, and walked back to the junction of the paths. Got onto the right track and got on track behind Glen Dessary House, then dropped into Glen Kingie. Followed the stalkers path to the col between An Eag & Sgurr Beag. Carried on up to Sgurr Mor, reached the summit at 6.30 in cloud and put my jersey on for the first time. Then descended to the col below Sgurr an Fhuarain, dropped down into Glen Kingie again then retraced my steps to Strathan & the car, which I reached at 9.45, still full light, reached the bunk house at 10.45. The first of many late nights.
July 28: Drove to Fort William to buy new headtorch, then on to Glenfinnan. Boiling hot day, chatted with a couple in the car park, then set off at 11.30, on top of Sgurr Thuilm at 3.30, then on to Sgurr nan Coireachan by the ridge, which I reached at 6.15. Then started the descent back to the Glen, ran out of water & coffee on the descent, went without fluid for 40 minutes, not pleasant, back to the car at 9.25, then drove on to Mallaig. Ghastly night in a dreadul hostel, never again, resolved to write a letter of complaint.
July 29: Took the morning ferry to Inverie, stayed at the Knoydart Foundation Bunkhouse. Let the Bunkhouse at 12.30 for Ladhar Bheinn. Walked through the village, then on Glen Guiserein, then up Corrie an Asgaill. Joined the ridge East of the summit, then on to the summit at 6.35, dropped down to the Glen then retraced my steps, arrived back at the bunkhouse at 10.30.
July 30: Set off at 9.45, walked to Mam Barrisdale, then had lunch at 1pm, just beyond the Mam. Cloud closed in at about 2, reached the summit of Luinne Bheinn at 3, then went on to Meall Buidhe, long way, lots of up & down, in cloud all the way, reached the top at 6.30, descended by the ridge, took ages to get off the end of the ridge to the river. Back to bunkhouse at 10.30.
July 31st: Set off at 8.30, v. wet morning, headed for the Mam again, The rain stopped at 9.00 a.m. Reached top of pass at midday. Reached summit at 2.00pm, left at 2.30, headed back to Mam, by the route I had used up yesterday. Had major feet problem on the way back, really hurting, took both boots off bathed them in a stream, beautiful, but had massive blisters on both heels. Stopped to look at the Brocket Memorial, it took some effort to get to it, absolutely huge, room to stand up inside it! Got back to the bunkhouse at 7.45.
August 1st: Stopped at pottery shop for coffee & sandwiches with Raquel & Richard, caught the morning ferry, raining, then back to Mallaig at 11.30. Stopped at Fisherman’s mission for lunch, rather greasy, then took R&R back to Glenfinnan. Drove on to Fort William, then spent the night in Crianlarich.
August 2nd: Breakfast at the railway station in Crinalarich. Left at 9.15, then got home at 9.30. Great week.
Skye/Glen Affric/Glen Shiel August 23-30, 2008.
August 23: Up at 5.30, left at 6.30, arrived at Richard’s place about 7.15, a quick transfer of my kit into his car and we were off. For some reason I can remember hardly anything about the journey, probably talking too much. We stopped in Carlisle, where Richard did his shopping for the week. I had done most of mine so felt quite virtuous, & picked up a few bit and bobs. We then carried on North, stopped in Spean Bridge for a meal, then on to Skye, and arrived at Glenbrittle at about 10.30 in the rain and dark. I then had the first grump of the week-while unloading the gear my watch caught the door of Richard’s car and the spindle of my watch came off, and the watch fell to the ground. Fortunately the watch was not damaged, and amazingly I found the spindle the next day and managed to place it back on the watch.
August 24: Nasty weather, cloud very low, Richard sensibly went off to climb Bla Bheinn, I went up Corrie a Ghreadaidh, and went on the ridge then returned to Glenbrittle. A good re introduction to Skye.
August 25: We went to different venues again, Richard attempted Mhic Choinnich. I set off to climb the mountain almost visible from the Youth Hostel, Sgurr Thuilm, but turned round after a) very strong winds and b) rain & hail which soaked me within seconds, I was not wearing my over trousers at the time, a situation which I rectified immediately. I then went on up the corrie to the col below Sgurr Thuilm with the intention of climbing Sgurr a Mhadaidh. As it was a) still raining, b) misty, c) windy, and d) it looked terrifying, I decided to head for the gap at An Dorus and go up Mhadaidh the easy way (from the East) very pleasant and my first top of the week, I then went down to the gap and up the other side and climbed Sgurr a Ghreadaidh, and was on the top at 3.30. I then went on to the lower top after leaving my rucksack. I headed back as the clouds were coming down again, and back to base, got back to Glenbrittle at about 7pm- a beautiful evening. A great day.
August 26: We left Skye and headed to Glen Affric, after restocking on food, and a visit to the Jacobite Café to refuel, we set off walking with big packs at about 12.00. We arrived at the Youth Hostel at about 4.30, where there was a Dutch family in residence, we had some tea, sorted our gear out, dried our wet clothing and then tried to eat all the food we had brought with us, which we managed quite easily. We chatted with the Dutch pere, he asked us what we were doing tomorrow & when we told him, he asked us how many Munros there were-1200 he asked?! Was he taking the ****? Heavens know where he got that figure from. Richard thought this was a trick question. If so, how devious some people can be.
August 27th: We got off early the next day about 8.30, but my pack did not feel much lighter. I opted out of the first top Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan, as I had climbed it some years previously, and cut across the corrie to the col below Ceathreamhnan, and waited for Richard, who I could see walking along the ridge. We met up again at about 10.45, and I left my rucksack at the col after eating and putting all my spare clothes on. The first top was a series of up and down which took ages to get past, and then the weather deteriorated, it started lashing down with rain and visibility was just a few yards. We then started the long drag up to the main summit. We overshot slightly, and had a good view of the lower top. We turned back and were on the main top in a few minutes at about 1.20. We did not longer long there and retraced our steps. Fortunately the weather improved and we collected my rucksack, set off across the corrie to the main ridge and back down to the hut which we reached at about 4.30. We then started the long trudge back to the car which we reached at 8.40. A long day. We drove to the Youth Hostel at Ratagan, fortunately very close by and then started cooking and sorting out the gear. A very late night and I did not sleep too well because of being over tired and some appalling snoring. Ear plugs did not keep the noise out!
Aug 28h: Richard decided to have a rest day. I started off with the intention of climbing Sgurr a Mhaoraich, but after about an hour decided that this was not a good idea and that a rest day was much more sensible. We had lunch at the Jacobite and then went back to Ratagan.
August 29th: Richard decided to have his foot looked at which had been bothering him all week, and drove to Inverness. He dropped me off at Morvich and I decided to do the Five Sisters Ridge. I set off at about 9, got to the end of Gleann Lichd at 10.45, and headed for Bealach an Lapain, which I reached just after lunch at about 1.10. Then I went on to Sgurr nan Spainteach, Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe, Sgurr na Carnach and Sgurr Fhuaran which I reached at 5.25. On the descent from Fhuaran I got into the clear for the first time since leaving Bealach an Lapain, nice to see where I was going at last, but navigation had not been a problem as there was a well worn path all the way. Shame. I skirted Sgurr na Saighead, then on to Beinn Bhuidhe and then to the col above Glen Shiel and then a horribly steep descent to the Glen, followed by a walk through undergrowth to the road bridge at Shiel Bridge. I then walked to Ratagan along the road and arrived there at about 8.45. Another monster day.
August 30th: The start of the long journey home. Left Ratagan at about 8, ridculously heavily laden- one rucksack on my back, one large and one small rucksack in one hand and one holdall in the other. I made painfully slow progress to Shiel Bridge about 1½ miles away, but got there at about 8.45, my T shirt was wringing wet and so I changed it. The bus was on time and we got to Glasgow at about 14.30 after stops in Fort William and Crianlarich. Then a taxi to central station, and the train to London got me into Kings Cross more or less on time, where it felt incredibly hot and sticky. I was home at about 11.00, where the first thing I did after lugging the bags into the sitting room was to dive into the shower. A relief to get all my sweaty clothes off.
A brilliant but very tiring week.
August 24: Nasty weather, cloud very low, Richard sensibly went off to climb Bla Bheinn, I went up Corrie a Ghreadaidh, and went on the ridge then returned to Glenbrittle. A good re introduction to Skye.
August 25: We went to different venues again, Richard attempted Mhic Choinnich. I set off to climb the mountain almost visible from the Youth Hostel, Sgurr Thuilm, but turned round after a) very strong winds and b) rain & hail which soaked me within seconds, I was not wearing my over trousers at the time, a situation which I rectified immediately. I then went on up the corrie to the col below Sgurr Thuilm with the intention of climbing Sgurr a Mhadaidh. As it was a) still raining, b) misty, c) windy, and d) it looked terrifying, I decided to head for the gap at An Dorus and go up Mhadaidh the easy way (from the East) very pleasant and my first top of the week, I then went down to the gap and up the other side and climbed Sgurr a Ghreadaidh, and was on the top at 3.30. I then went on to the lower top after leaving my rucksack. I headed back as the clouds were coming down again, and back to base, got back to Glenbrittle at about 7pm- a beautiful evening. A great day.
August 26: We left Skye and headed to Glen Affric, after restocking on food, and a visit to the Jacobite Café to refuel, we set off walking with big packs at about 12.00. We arrived at the Youth Hostel at about 4.30, where there was a Dutch family in residence, we had some tea, sorted our gear out, dried our wet clothing and then tried to eat all the food we had brought with us, which we managed quite easily. We chatted with the Dutch pere, he asked us what we were doing tomorrow & when we told him, he asked us how many Munros there were-1200 he asked?! Was he taking the ****? Heavens know where he got that figure from. Richard thought this was a trick question. If so, how devious some people can be.
August 27th: We got off early the next day about 8.30, but my pack did not feel much lighter. I opted out of the first top Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan, as I had climbed it some years previously, and cut across the corrie to the col below Ceathreamhnan, and waited for Richard, who I could see walking along the ridge. We met up again at about 10.45, and I left my rucksack at the col after eating and putting all my spare clothes on. The first top was a series of up and down which took ages to get past, and then the weather deteriorated, it started lashing down with rain and visibility was just a few yards. We then started the long drag up to the main summit. We overshot slightly, and had a good view of the lower top. We turned back and were on the main top in a few minutes at about 1.20. We did not longer long there and retraced our steps. Fortunately the weather improved and we collected my rucksack, set off across the corrie to the main ridge and back down to the hut which we reached at about 4.30. We then started the long trudge back to the car which we reached at 8.40. A long day. We drove to the Youth Hostel at Ratagan, fortunately very close by and then started cooking and sorting out the gear. A very late night and I did not sleep too well because of being over tired and some appalling snoring. Ear plugs did not keep the noise out!
Aug 28h: Richard decided to have a rest day. I started off with the intention of climbing Sgurr a Mhaoraich, but after about an hour decided that this was not a good idea and that a rest day was much more sensible. We had lunch at the Jacobite and then went back to Ratagan.
August 29th: Richard decided to have his foot looked at which had been bothering him all week, and drove to Inverness. He dropped me off at Morvich and I decided to do the Five Sisters Ridge. I set off at about 9, got to the end of Gleann Lichd at 10.45, and headed for Bealach an Lapain, which I reached just after lunch at about 1.10. Then I went on to Sgurr nan Spainteach, Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe, Sgurr na Carnach and Sgurr Fhuaran which I reached at 5.25. On the descent from Fhuaran I got into the clear for the first time since leaving Bealach an Lapain, nice to see where I was going at last, but navigation had not been a problem as there was a well worn path all the way. Shame. I skirted Sgurr na Saighead, then on to Beinn Bhuidhe and then to the col above Glen Shiel and then a horribly steep descent to the Glen, followed by a walk through undergrowth to the road bridge at Shiel Bridge. I then walked to Ratagan along the road and arrived there at about 8.45. Another monster day.
August 30th: The start of the long journey home. Left Ratagan at about 8, ridculously heavily laden- one rucksack on my back, one large and one small rucksack in one hand and one holdall in the other. I made painfully slow progress to Shiel Bridge about 1½ miles away, but got there at about 8.45, my T shirt was wringing wet and so I changed it. The bus was on time and we got to Glasgow at about 14.30 after stops in Fort William and Crianlarich. Then a taxi to central station, and the train to London got me into Kings Cross more or less on time, where it felt incredibly hot and sticky. I was home at about 11.00, where the first thing I did after lugging the bags into the sitting room was to dive into the shower. A relief to get all my sweaty clothes off.
A brilliant but very tiring week.
Sunday, 15 November 2009
Knoydart, October 19-25, 2008.
October 19: The accommodation at Glenfinnan did not work out, so I abandoned the plan to travel up by train, and I travelled up by car on the Sunday instead, after doing some painting in the staircase of my flat on the Saturday. I left my newly decorated flat at 9.10, stopped in Carlisle to do some shopping. I crossed the border at 4.15, it then started raining and continued all the way to Fort William. I thought this was a bit much, but it was positively arid compared to the conditions on the return journey. I spent the night at Calluna, where I found a party of Poles who were proposing to ascend BenNevis without the benefit of map or compass. They were planning on using a Sat Nav (!) to get them to the top. I suggested that this was not very sensible, and that they were not properly equipped for Britain's highest mountain. I hope they decided to alter their plans.
October 20: October 20: Left Fort William at 8.15 on an awful morning, arrived at Mallaig at 9.20. Very strong winds and I was quite concerned to see waves breaking over the walls on the way North. I was hit by an incredibly strong squall just after parking the car. I was assured by the locals this was little more than a breeze, and sure enough the boat sailed on time and I arrived at Inverie at 11.00. I was met by Christine from the Old Byre. I went straight there, got organized then back to the village to find out where the deer stalking was taking place and headed off for Sgurr nan Choinnechean at 1.15 via the Mam Uidhe. Reached the foot of the final ridge to be hit by a heavy shower of rain and hail. By the time I had made the summit it had cleared and I had a good view of Ladhar Bheinn which was in the clear as well. I returned over some very wet ground to the path and was back at 7.
October 21: Up at 7, then at first light, about 8, the day looked terrific, so decided to hear for Sgurr na Ciche. Rang the stalkers, no reply from one, other number was unobtainable, so set off at 8.45. On top of the pass at 11.20. I had a superb view of Sgurr Na Ciche, which looked terrific, felt that things were looking good. Headed for the base of the ridge across a rickety plank bridge and across some boggy flat ground. Had lunch on the start of the ridge when it started to rain and hail. Decided to abandon the expedition and headed to Sourlies for lunch in the dry. Set off at 2, reached the top of the pass at 4.20 in nasty weather, back to the Byre at 7.
October 22: Up at 7. A good morning, so decided to head for Beinn Buidhe. Set off at about 9.00 , walked past Kilchoan, then along the beach to the foot of the ridge. I had to cross a deer fence then slogged up a very steep slope, and eventually reached Loch Bhramisaig at about 11.00. It was very cold and put on a few more layers, then headed SE on to the main ridge, and then reached the first top. The weather then closed in, cloud base down, and very wet, headed for Sgurr nan Gobhar. Crossed some very confusing ground decided to by pass Gabhar, and headed straight for the bealach which led to Beinn Buidhe. At the bealach, I decided to abandon and headed down towards Gleann Meadail. After about 15 minutes I was in clear air, crossed 2 more deer fences, down to the Glen and home. Everything wet when I stripped off, a good job the Byre had an efficient drying room. I felt a bit off colour that evening. I had great trouble getting warm, and I put all my layers on plus the duvet from the bed, and was just warm enough.
October 23: It seemed as if the weather had decided not to mess about with having wet and dry spells and went for the simple approach-rain all day. Awful weather forecast, very strong winds forecast up to about 80 mph in addition to the rain. Decided to head for a low lying hill Ron na Beinne. I set off from the Foundation Office at 11.30, after leaving a route card with them. I am sure they thought I was quite mad. I walked along the road for about an hour, then branched off and climbed on to a broad, flat ridge, then head for the Scottas Burn which I followed on its W Bank to a col, then over a bump and then the final pull on to the summit block, then on to the summit. Fortunately the trig point was quite substantial and so I managed to get some shelter from the amazingly strong wind. Going back by my ascent route was impossible due to the winds so headed down by the North ridge, very steep, which at least meant that I got out of the wind quickly. About halfway down I came across a huge boulder which made a perfect wind break, a good spot for lunch. I then headed for the Sandaig Burn and followed it to the road, but not before I met yet another deer fence, but I was fortunately able to follow it down to the road and then back to village at about 4. A great adventure. I rang Tommy at the Foundation Office to tell him I was back safely but I saw him that evening in the pub anyway.
October 24: Up at 7, packed up, Christine came round and we had a bit of a chat. I left at 9,30 and walked to the village, bought some cards at the Foundation Office and then back to the Pottery Tearoom, where I found out that the afternoon ferry crossing has been cancelled as Force 10 winds had been forecast-I had originally planned on catching it, just as well I had changed my plan. I posted the cards so they had the prized Knoydart postmark, but made a faux pas - the box was being emptied as I posted them, so that they would not go until Monday. never mind. The crossing was pretty rough, especially when we got close to Mallaig, with spray coming over the bows. I did some shopping in Mallaig, then headed towards Glenfinnan. I stopped at the Visitor Centre and had some soup and coffee as I was feeling really cold. I then stopped at the approach to Gulvain and walked for 2k along the path and turned round at Wauchan with tantalising views of the SW summit. I then drove on to Banavie and walked along the Caledonian Canal, the venue for the next venture. A bit dull, very long straight bits with the occasional bend. I turned round after about 45 minutes, and got soaked by another violent lengthy shower just as I had reached the car. I headed off to Spean Bridge, had something to eat, then on to Tulloch Station lodge where I spent the night.
October 25: Raining hard again, with winds gusting up to 120 mph, I was not hat disappointed to be leaving. I left at 9.40, stopped at Dave Pogson’s house at about 10.45, had a long chat, then set off at 11.30, driving quite slowly through the wind and rain, quite intimidating at times as the wind was so strong. The rain eventually stopped just short of Birmingham, and the rest of the journey was quite pleasant, quite a novelty to be able to see out of wing mirrors. I got home at about 11pm.
A great trip.
Saturday, 14 November 2009
Dundonnell August 18-26, 2007.
August 18: Eventually left home at about 11.30, latest departure ever, only to turn round about 15 minutes later after 15 minutes to collect some essential supplies, then took the long route to the Motorway, or to put it another way, I got lost. Eventually I got on the A4, then on the road north, always a good feeling. I crossed the border at about 6, latest ever, then put my foot down, and arrived in Pitlochry, my overnight stop at about 8.45. I checked in and tried to find something to eat. This proved difficult, everywhere seemed to be shut, or to have stopped serving. Well after all it was the outlandish hour of 9pm, what did I expect. I eventually found an Indian takeaway for which I gave thanks after getting over the first grump of the week.
August 19: I did not hang around in Pitlochry, and was on the road by 8.30, a bit more like it, and passed DP's house at about 9. I turned off, but decided not to visit, as it was a wee bit early still. In hindsight, this turned out out to be a good decision. I stopped in Inverness for some last minute shopping and petrol, and carried on North, and reached Braemore Junction at about 12, and started getting ready for the hills, which was a rather lengthy process as the back of the car was jam packed with gear. I eventually got going at about 12.45, and headed round the north shore of Loch a Bhraoin, then at the head of the loch started the week's first real climbing, reached the summit of A' Chailleach, then on to Sgurr Breac, then down to the col, and back to the car at about 8. Then on to Dundonnell and Badrallach, my home for the next week. I eventually got the tent up, opened the beer, started cooking, and all seemed well with my world-no midges.
August 20: Eididh nan Clach Geala, Sgurr nan Ceapraichean: A slightly late(ish) start due to unpromising weather. I was getting myself organised when the owner of a nearby house asked me if if I was the electrician! Mmmm. I set off in unpromising weather, but no rain, on a decent path, but I was too low, so I had to scramble over a fence and then slog up the hillside through thick heather. Grump #2 ensued caused by navigation error. Eventually I got on the ridge and arrived at the summit at 2.20. I then headed for the next summit, Meall nan Ceapraichean, which took 2 hours, very steep and rocky, and I reached the top in cloud, first time this trip, which for some reason took me by surprise. I then took the path down, in the rain and the prospect of a soggy camp site did not appeal, and I felt quite depressed at the prospect. However I later found that we could cook in the accommodation building on the camp site - the Bothy-and everyone else was doing the same, so a jolly evening followed.
August 21: Weather had still not improved in the morning, so a very late start. I decided to head for The Fannichs, a range to the south, to do the 2 Munros left over from my last visit. I did not start until 12 (!), and headed for An Coileachan and Meall Gorm. I skirted round the base of Ben Liath Mor Fannnich, and headed for Loch Li, over some very rough heathery ground, and then after the loch, very steep slopes. I reached the main ridge just before 5, and reached the first top, Meall Gorm, just after 5pm. I then headed for An Coileachan, and reached the summit at 6.10, then back to the bealach, and the long trudge back to the car, which I reached at 8.40, then drove back in damp and misty conditions.
August 22/23: Up early. Was this the stunning weather we had been promised for the last few days? Not a promising start as the mist was right down to sea level, but it could be sea fret. I got ready and left at about 8am for another drive through the mist, but it magically cleared with stunning views to the West, so it had to be Fisherfield. While getting ready at Corrie Hallie, I overheard a conversation, one man was talking about the difficulties of crossing the stream at Shenavall. He said that on one occasion it was "a raging and a roaring". I left with this typically optimistic view ringing in my ears. I left Corrie Hallie at 8.45, and was across the river and at the base of the first top at 11.30. A long trudge with a lunch break en route, plus one very rocky section and I was on top of Beinn a Chladheim at 2.20. I was then on the ridge, one slight "problem" was that I had no sunglasses, and as I was walking South, I was heading straight into the dazzling sun, an unusual problem in Scotland. I headed on to Sgurr Ban, and Mullach Coir Mhic Fhearcair, and then a long descent to the fourth top, Beinn Tarsuinn, which I reached at about 6. I then descended below a ridge leading from the summit and then down a descent gully where I managed to refill my water bottle. I then carried on down to a very wet and, alas low col. I started the long drag up to the next top, A' Mgaidhean. After some time, I saw some deer on the summit ridge who seemed miles away. At about 7.15pm, I had the presence of mind to ring the camp site owners and tell them I would not be back that evening. I eventually reached the summit at about 9, with the light starting to fail. I then removed some of my sweaty clothes, dried them and put them back on, not too uncomfortable. I descended carefully in the gathering gloom to the next bealach, taking the easiest angled slopes I could find. I was alarmed to see some very steep cliffs below the summit of the next top Ruadh Stac Mor, and decided to bivouac at the base of the crags.
I then settled down for the night. I dropped off almost instantly-I must have been really tired; I woke up about midnight, then slept again until 1.0 am. That was the end of my sleep, but I had a great night, the stars were a wonderful sight, and the moon looked huge. At about 4.00 am the sky started to lighten, although it had never been totally dark. I could see the outline of the ridge I had come down from the previous evening quite clearly all through the night. I explored the area and was relieved to see a path leading through the crags. I set off at 5.15 am, and was on the the top (the last) at 5.45, to see a fantastic sunrise. I left the summit at 6, and then started the long walk back to civilisation. I replenished my water supply and tried to ignore the fact that I had not eaten since 9 the previous evening. After descending some very steep ground, I got onto a stalkers path, and then headed for the bothy at Shenavall. This involved crossing 2 very deep streams, boots off, shoes on, with a bog in between the two for good measure, then I was attacked by some gorse on the river bank. This route certainly had everything! I was in the bothy at 10, which was empty, but some people were clearly staying there, but not me! I left the bothy at 10, and then started the long trek to the road on a very boggy path, which was quite steep to begin with, which reduced my slow pace to a crawl. I reached the junction with the path about 2 hours later, which I had last been on about 26 hours earlier. I celebrated with my last remaining food, a sandwich from yesterday which I could not face until now. I passed a few people coming in the opposite direction, then after a toilet stop, finally reached the car, a sight which I had been hallucinating about for some time. A quick change,then on to the Dundonnell Hotel, and had my first meal for some time.
The circuit of the Fisherfield Munros took me about 15 hours (about 10 1/2 hours to the bivvy under Ruadh Stac Mor), then 4 3/4 hours to the to Shenavall. The walk in and out an additional 5 3/4 hours, an amazing expedition.
August 24: Felt surprisingly refreshed after a long sleep-a good morning, so I set off for my remaining 3 peaks in the area. I arrived at Inverlael at about 9.30, and had been walking for about 10 minutes when I was given a lift to the end of the track. Excellent. I started on the main route up the glen which was very windy and cold. I headed for Beinn Dearg which was in the cloud and followed the enormous wall and then went through a gap in the wall to the summit, which I reached at about 2pm. I had lunch, then back to the col and then on to Cona Meall, which was also in the cloud, up some rocky ground, then round the lip of the corrie to the summit, which proved to be the last one of the trip. Then back to the col, for the third visit of the day! I descended by the path I had used on the ascent, and the cloud was now very low. I reached the end of the path and was about to enter the forest when I saw the man who had given me a lift up in the morning. He kindly gave me a lift back to the road, and was back at the car at 6.45, and cooked in the daylight, which was a big bonus.
August 25: I looked out of the tent doors and decided it was not a Seana Bhraigh day, my last remaining Munro in the area. I decided that a day away from the mountains would be a good idea, so I hired a bike from the camp site, and cycled to Scoraig up the coast. I was also attracted by the news that they were holding a air which presumably meant FOOD! I eventually arrived there after descending some extremely steep paths-walking would have probably been better-and found the place rather too hippyish for my liking, so I made the return journey after a short stay. I packed up the unfortunately wet tent, and headed south to Aviemore, to find motorcyclists everywhere. Quite a contrast to Badrallach. I managed to get moved out of a room which had two motorcyclists in it, and fortunately had a good night.
August 26: Left at a reasonable time and headed down the A9 for Dalwhinnie. I wrote and posted some postcards, and then called in on DP in Dalnaspidal. There was no sign of his car outside either of the two houses, I then went over to the Lodge, but did not feel that was D's house, called on his neighbour who told me he had gone out. I was just walking back to my car when the man himself drove up. I had an excellent cup of coffee, exchanged chat, then headed south, an uneventful, though long, journey, and was back home at 9.30pm. A good end to an excellent trip.
August 19: I did not hang around in Pitlochry, and was on the road by 8.30, a bit more like it, and passed DP's house at about 9. I turned off, but decided not to visit, as it was a wee bit early still. In hindsight, this turned out out to be a good decision. I stopped in Inverness for some last minute shopping and petrol, and carried on North, and reached Braemore Junction at about 12, and started getting ready for the hills, which was a rather lengthy process as the back of the car was jam packed with gear. I eventually got going at about 12.45, and headed round the north shore of Loch a Bhraoin, then at the head of the loch started the week's first real climbing, reached the summit of A' Chailleach, then on to Sgurr Breac, then down to the col, and back to the car at about 8. Then on to Dundonnell and Badrallach, my home for the next week. I eventually got the tent up, opened the beer, started cooking, and all seemed well with my world-no midges.
August 20: Eididh nan Clach Geala, Sgurr nan Ceapraichean: A slightly late(ish) start due to unpromising weather. I was getting myself organised when the owner of a nearby house asked me if if I was the electrician! Mmmm. I set off in unpromising weather, but no rain, on a decent path, but I was too low, so I had to scramble over a fence and then slog up the hillside through thick heather. Grump #2 ensued caused by navigation error. Eventually I got on the ridge and arrived at the summit at 2.20. I then headed for the next summit, Meall nan Ceapraichean, which took 2 hours, very steep and rocky, and I reached the top in cloud, first time this trip, which for some reason took me by surprise. I then took the path down, in the rain and the prospect of a soggy camp site did not appeal, and I felt quite depressed at the prospect. However I later found that we could cook in the accommodation building on the camp site - the Bothy-and everyone else was doing the same, so a jolly evening followed.
August 21: Weather had still not improved in the morning, so a very late start. I decided to head for The Fannichs, a range to the south, to do the 2 Munros left over from my last visit. I did not start until 12 (!), and headed for An Coileachan and Meall Gorm. I skirted round the base of Ben Liath Mor Fannnich, and headed for Loch Li, over some very rough heathery ground, and then after the loch, very steep slopes. I reached the main ridge just before 5, and reached the first top, Meall Gorm, just after 5pm. I then headed for An Coileachan, and reached the summit at 6.10, then back to the bealach, and the long trudge back to the car, which I reached at 8.40, then drove back in damp and misty conditions.
August 22/23: Up early. Was this the stunning weather we had been promised for the last few days? Not a promising start as the mist was right down to sea level, but it could be sea fret. I got ready and left at about 8am for another drive through the mist, but it magically cleared with stunning views to the West, so it had to be Fisherfield. While getting ready at Corrie Hallie, I overheard a conversation, one man was talking about the difficulties of crossing the stream at Shenavall. He said that on one occasion it was "a raging and a roaring". I left with this typically optimistic view ringing in my ears. I left Corrie Hallie at 8.45, and was across the river and at the base of the first top at 11.30. A long trudge with a lunch break en route, plus one very rocky section and I was on top of Beinn a Chladheim at 2.20. I was then on the ridge, one slight "problem" was that I had no sunglasses, and as I was walking South, I was heading straight into the dazzling sun, an unusual problem in Scotland. I headed on to Sgurr Ban, and Mullach Coir Mhic Fhearcair, and then a long descent to the fourth top, Beinn Tarsuinn, which I reached at about 6. I then descended below a ridge leading from the summit and then down a descent gully where I managed to refill my water bottle. I then carried on down to a very wet and, alas low col. I started the long drag up to the next top, A' Mgaidhean. After some time, I saw some deer on the summit ridge who seemed miles away. At about 7.15pm, I had the presence of mind to ring the camp site owners and tell them I would not be back that evening. I eventually reached the summit at about 9, with the light starting to fail. I then removed some of my sweaty clothes, dried them and put them back on, not too uncomfortable. I descended carefully in the gathering gloom to the next bealach, taking the easiest angled slopes I could find. I was alarmed to see some very steep cliffs below the summit of the next top Ruadh Stac Mor, and decided to bivouac at the base of the crags.
I then settled down for the night. I dropped off almost instantly-I must have been really tired; I woke up about midnight, then slept again until 1.0 am. That was the end of my sleep, but I had a great night, the stars were a wonderful sight, and the moon looked huge. At about 4.00 am the sky started to lighten, although it had never been totally dark. I could see the outline of the ridge I had come down from the previous evening quite clearly all through the night. I explored the area and was relieved to see a path leading through the crags. I set off at 5.15 am, and was on the the top (the last) at 5.45, to see a fantastic sunrise. I left the summit at 6, and then started the long walk back to civilisation. I replenished my water supply and tried to ignore the fact that I had not eaten since 9 the previous evening. After descending some very steep ground, I got onto a stalkers path, and then headed for the bothy at Shenavall. This involved crossing 2 very deep streams, boots off, shoes on, with a bog in between the two for good measure, then I was attacked by some gorse on the river bank. This route certainly had everything! I was in the bothy at 10, which was empty, but some people were clearly staying there, but not me! I left the bothy at 10, and then started the long trek to the road on a very boggy path, which was quite steep to begin with, which reduced my slow pace to a crawl. I reached the junction with the path about 2 hours later, which I had last been on about 26 hours earlier. I celebrated with my last remaining food, a sandwich from yesterday which I could not face until now. I passed a few people coming in the opposite direction, then after a toilet stop, finally reached the car, a sight which I had been hallucinating about for some time. A quick change,then on to the Dundonnell Hotel, and had my first meal for some time.
The circuit of the Fisherfield Munros took me about 15 hours (about 10 1/2 hours to the bivvy under Ruadh Stac Mor), then 4 3/4 hours to the to Shenavall. The walk in and out an additional 5 3/4 hours, an amazing expedition.
August 24: Felt surprisingly refreshed after a long sleep-a good morning, so I set off for my remaining 3 peaks in the area. I arrived at Inverlael at about 9.30, and had been walking for about 10 minutes when I was given a lift to the end of the track. Excellent. I started on the main route up the glen which was very windy and cold. I headed for Beinn Dearg which was in the cloud and followed the enormous wall and then went through a gap in the wall to the summit, which I reached at about 2pm. I had lunch, then back to the col and then on to Cona Meall, which was also in the cloud, up some rocky ground, then round the lip of the corrie to the summit, which proved to be the last one of the trip. Then back to the col, for the third visit of the day! I descended by the path I had used on the ascent, and the cloud was now very low. I reached the end of the path and was about to enter the forest when I saw the man who had given me a lift up in the morning. He kindly gave me a lift back to the road, and was back at the car at 6.45, and cooked in the daylight, which was a big bonus.
August 25: I looked out of the tent doors and decided it was not a Seana Bhraigh day, my last remaining Munro in the area. I decided that a day away from the mountains would be a good idea, so I hired a bike from the camp site, and cycled to Scoraig up the coast. I was also attracted by the news that they were holding a air which presumably meant FOOD! I eventually arrived there after descending some extremely steep paths-walking would have probably been better-and found the place rather too hippyish for my liking, so I made the return journey after a short stay. I packed up the unfortunately wet tent, and headed south to Aviemore, to find motorcyclists everywhere. Quite a contrast to Badrallach. I managed to get moved out of a room which had two motorcyclists in it, and fortunately had a good night.
August 26: Left at a reasonable time and headed down the A9 for Dalwhinnie. I wrote and posted some postcards, and then called in on DP in Dalnaspidal. There was no sign of his car outside either of the two houses, I then went over to the Lodge, but did not feel that was D's house, called on his neighbour who told me he had gone out. I was just walking back to my car when the man himself drove up. I had an excellent cup of coffee, exchanged chat, then headed south, an uneventful, though long, journey, and was back home at 9.30pm. A good end to an excellent trip.
Sunday, 8 November 2009
Pennine Way, October 27-November 2, 2007.
October 27: Travelled up minus Vaughan and Mark to enjoy the last week end before the clocks changed. Unfortunately rucksack rather heavy, about 35 pounds-I had to take the large one even though I had an absolute minimum of food. An uneventful train journey - the train was reasonably empty. I escaped to the quiet coach for most of the trip to get away from the mobile phone brigade. After a quick change in Newcastle, I arrived in Haltwistle at about 5.20. I then started walking, partly on roads and paths, and arrived at Once Brewed at about 7.15. I asked what time the pub stopped serving food, to be told that it would not be "before 8" which meant a bit of a scramble. When I got there, I discovered that they served food until 9, so panic over. I had a good meal, and then prepared for the rigours of tomorrow.
October 28: I set off at about 9.30, and made reasonably good time along Hadrians Wall, and arrived on the outskirts of Greenhead at about lunch time. I then skirted around the edge of the golf course, crossed a very busy road, and I was then on fairly featureless moorland. I got diverted and took a long dog leg to the east, then a little bit on the road, then crossed the Hartley Burn after a lot of up and down, and then on to less hilly ground. However I was now running out of time as it was now 5pm and beginning to get dark. I rang the place I was staying at and told them I would be late. I started walking down the road, then it started to rain, then it poured down, someone in a 4x4 or of similar size stopped and offered me a lift. I accepted gladly and resolved not to criticise the owners of such vehicles for a while, however I this did not last long. Anyway they took me into Slaggyford, my destination for the evening.
October 29: I went on a disused railway line for a while and then joined the PW. I then went on a strange roundabout route and then walked into Alston and topped up my supplies. I then carried on to Garigill, and arrived there in good time. I was convinced I had booked into the Post office, but here was complete confusion on the owner's face. I walked down the main street and passed a B&B, wondering where to stay and and saw a note to me in the window. Obviously there had been some foul up over the booking. I eventually mad contact with the owner who was out when I arrived. I went out to the local pub for a meal that night. I did not feel that well later, probably the result of carrying a heavy rucksack and a long day yesterday.
Oct 30: I set off after a huge breakfast, still not feeling that great, and headed for Cross Fell, a beautiful day. I started the drag up to the top, and seemed to be going OK. I had lunch in Greg's hut with the weather deteriorating fast. I made it to the summit in zero visibility. I then had a massive navigational foul up, I managed to get completely lost, eventually sorted myself out, and got to Great Dun Fell with the hideous mast on top. I started off down the road and for Knock Old Man in awful weather, then made yet another navigational error, should have headed SW, but didn't....I soon realised my mistake and got on the right track just as night was fall ling. I lost height and got into Dufton, hardly any lights in the village but soon found the YH. The bad news was that the pub was shut, but the warden kindly made me some food.
October 31: I set off from Dufton for High Cup Nick, a long drag but the wait was worth it, a really spectacular place. I then cut across country along Maize Beck, but my feet were killing me, I could not work out why, they were boiling hot, took my boots off and the insoles out. Magic instant relief. I joined the main road at Langdon Beck, unfortunately I could not get into the YH or the hotel, so had to stay at the High Force Hotel, a pretty awful place, but I was past caring, and ate there that night.
November 1: I walked down the road and joined the PW, then walked up to where I had left it the previous night. I paused, turned round round, passed a quarry, then looked at High Force, quite spectacular. I then walked on a really pleasant path by the river almost the whole way, cut across some fields, almost made a wrong turning, and then reached the end of the path. I then passed a cattle market, and walked into Middleton in Teesdale and found my B&B quite easily, Brunswick House, a fabulous place.
November 2: Caught the bus to Darlington, then the train south. A good trip in spite of the heavy rucksack.
October 28: I set off at about 9.30, and made reasonably good time along Hadrians Wall, and arrived on the outskirts of Greenhead at about lunch time. I then skirted around the edge of the golf course, crossed a very busy road, and I was then on fairly featureless moorland. I got diverted and took a long dog leg to the east, then a little bit on the road, then crossed the Hartley Burn after a lot of up and down, and then on to less hilly ground. However I was now running out of time as it was now 5pm and beginning to get dark. I rang the place I was staying at and told them I would be late. I started walking down the road, then it started to rain, then it poured down, someone in a 4x4 or of similar size stopped and offered me a lift. I accepted gladly and resolved not to criticise the owners of such vehicles for a while, however I this did not last long. Anyway they took me into Slaggyford, my destination for the evening.
October 29: I went on a disused railway line for a while and then joined the PW. I then went on a strange roundabout route and then walked into Alston and topped up my supplies. I then carried on to Garigill, and arrived there in good time. I was convinced I had booked into the Post office, but here was complete confusion on the owner's face. I walked down the main street and passed a B&B, wondering where to stay and and saw a note to me in the window. Obviously there had been some foul up over the booking. I eventually mad contact with the owner who was out when I arrived. I went out to the local pub for a meal that night. I did not feel that well later, probably the result of carrying a heavy rucksack and a long day yesterday.
Oct 30: I set off after a huge breakfast, still not feeling that great, and headed for Cross Fell, a beautiful day. I started the drag up to the top, and seemed to be going OK. I had lunch in Greg's hut with the weather deteriorating fast. I made it to the summit in zero visibility. I then had a massive navigational foul up, I managed to get completely lost, eventually sorted myself out, and got to Great Dun Fell with the hideous mast on top. I started off down the road and for Knock Old Man in awful weather, then made yet another navigational error, should have headed SW, but didn't....I soon realised my mistake and got on the right track just as night was fall ling. I lost height and got into Dufton, hardly any lights in the village but soon found the YH. The bad news was that the pub was shut, but the warden kindly made me some food.
October 31: I set off from Dufton for High Cup Nick, a long drag but the wait was worth it, a really spectacular place. I then cut across country along Maize Beck, but my feet were killing me, I could not work out why, they were boiling hot, took my boots off and the insoles out. Magic instant relief. I joined the main road at Langdon Beck, unfortunately I could not get into the YH or the hotel, so had to stay at the High Force Hotel, a pretty awful place, but I was past caring, and ate there that night.
November 1: I walked down the road and joined the PW, then walked up to where I had left it the previous night. I paused, turned round round, passed a quarry, then looked at High Force, quite spectacular. I then walked on a really pleasant path by the river almost the whole way, cut across some fields, almost made a wrong turning, and then reached the end of the path. I then passed a cattle market, and walked into Middleton in Teesdale and found my B&B quite easily, Brunswick House, a fabulous place.
November 2: Caught the bus to Darlington, then the train south. A good trip in spite of the heavy rucksack.
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