Dundonnell August 18-26, 2007.

August 18: Eventually left home at about 11.30, latest departure ever, only to turn round about 15 minutes later after 15 minutes to collect some essential supplies, then took the long route to the Motorway, or to put it another way, I got lost. Eventually I got on the A4, then on the road north, always a good feeling. I crossed the border at about 6, latest ever, then put my foot down, and arrived in Pitlochry, my overnight stop at about 8.45. I checked in and tried to find something to eat. This proved difficult, everywhere seemed to be shut, or to have stopped serving. Well after all it was the outlandish hour of 9pm, what did I expect. I eventually found an Indian takeaway for which I gave thanks after getting over the first grump of the week.

August 19: I did not hang around in Pitlochry, and was on the road by 8.30, a bit more like it, and passed DP's house at about 9. I turned off, but decided not to visit, as it was a wee bit early still. In hindsight, this turned out out to be a good decision. I stopped in Inverness for some last minute shopping and petrol, and carried on North, and reached Braemore Junction at about 12, and started getting ready for the hills, which was a rather lengthy process as the back of the car was jam packed with gear. I eventually got going at about 12.45, and headed round the north shore of Loch a Bhraoin, then at the head of the loch started the week's first real climbing, reached the summit of A' Chailleach, then on to Sgurr Breac, then down to the col, and back to the car at about 8. Then on to Dundonnell and Badrallach, my home for the next week. I eventually got the tent up, opened the beer, started cooking, and all seemed well with my world-no midges.

August 20: Eididh nan Clach Geala, Sgurr nan Ceapraichean: A slightly late(ish) start due to unpromising weather. I was getting myself organised when the owner of a nearby house asked me if if I was the electrician! Mmmm. I set off in unpromising weather, but no rain, on a decent path, but I was too low, so I had to scramble over a fence and then slog up the hillside through thick heather. Grump #2 ensued caused by navigation error. Eventually I got on the ridge and arrived at the summit at 2.20. I then headed for the next summit, Meall nan Ceapraichean, which took 2 hours, very steep and rocky, and I reached the top in cloud, first time this trip, which for some reason took me by surprise. I then took the path down, in the rain and the prospect of a soggy camp site did not appeal, and I felt quite depressed at the prospect. However I later found that we could cook in the accommodation building on the camp site - the Bothy-and everyone else was doing the same, so a jolly evening followed.

August 21: Weather had still not improved in the morning, so a very late start. I decided to head for The Fannichs, a range to the south, to do the 2 Munros left over from my last visit. I did not start until 12 (!), and headed for An Coileachan and Meall Gorm. I skirted round the base of Ben Liath Mor Fannnich, and headed for Loch Li, over some very rough heathery ground, and then after the loch, very steep slopes. I reached the main ridge just before 5, and reached the first top, Meall Gorm, just after 5pm. I then headed for An Coileachan, and reached the summit at 6.10, then back to the bealach, and the long trudge back to the car, which I reached at 8.40, then drove back in damp and misty conditions.

August 22/23: Up early. Was this the stunning weather we had been promised for the last few days? Not a promising start as the mist was right down to sea level, but it could be sea fret. I got ready and left at about 8am for another drive through the mist, but it magically cleared with stunning views to the West, so it had to be Fisherfield. While getting ready at Corrie Hallie, I overheard a conversation, one man was talking about the difficulties of crossing the stream at Shenavall. He said that on one occasion it was "a raging and a roaring". I left with this typically optimistic view ringing in my ears. I left Corrie Hallie at 8.45, and was across the river and at the base of the first top at 11.30. A long trudge with a lunch break en route, plus one very rocky section and I was on top of Beinn a Chladheim at 2.20. I was then on the ridge, one slight "problem" was that I had no sunglasses, and as I was walking South, I was heading straight into the dazzling sun, an unusual problem in Scotland. I headed on to Sgurr Ban, and Mullach Coir Mhic Fhearcair, and then a long descent to the fourth top, Beinn Tarsuinn, which I reached at about 6. I then descended below a ridge leading from the summit and then down a descent gully where I managed to refill my water bottle. I then carried on down to a very wet and, alas low col. I started the long drag up to the next top, A' Mgaidhean. After some time, I saw some deer on the summit ridge who seemed miles away. At about 7.15pm, I had the presence of mind to ring the camp site owners and tell them I would not be back that evening. I eventually reached the summit at about 9, with the light starting to fail. I then removed some of my sweaty clothes, dried them and put them back on, not too uncomfortable. I descended carefully in the gathering gloom to the next bealach, taking the easiest angled slopes I could find. I was alarmed to see some very steep cliffs below the summit of the next top Ruadh Stac Mor, and decided to bivouac at the base of the crags.
I then settled down for the night. I dropped off almost instantly-I must have been really tired; I woke up about midnight, then slept again until 1.0 am. That was the end of my sleep, but I had a great night, the stars were a wonderful sight, and the moon looked huge. At about 4.00 am the sky started to lighten, although it had never been totally dark. I could see the outline of the ridge I had come down from the previous evening quite clearly all through the night. I explored the area and was relieved to see a path leading through the crags. I set off at 5.15 am, and was on the the top (the last) at 5.45, to see a fantastic sunrise. I left the summit at 6, and then started the long walk back to civilisation. I replenished my water supply and tried to ignore the fact that I had not eaten since 9 the previous evening. After descending some very steep ground, I got onto a stalkers path, and then headed for the bothy at Shenavall. This involved crossing 2 very deep streams, boots off, shoes on, with a bog in between the two for good measure, then I was attacked by some gorse on the river bank. This route certainly had everything! I was in the bothy at 10, which was empty, but some people were clearly staying there, but not me! I left the bothy at 10, and then started the long trek to the road on a very boggy path, which was quite steep to begin with, which reduced my slow pace to a crawl. I reached the junction with the path about 2 hours later, which I had last been on about 26 hours earlier. I celebrated with my last remaining food, a sandwich from yesterday which I could not face until now. I passed a few people coming in the opposite direction, then after a toilet stop, finally reached the car, a sight which I had been hallucinating about for some time. A quick change,then on to the Dundonnell Hotel, and had my first meal for some time.
The circuit of the Fisherfield Munros took me about 15 hours (about 10 1/2 hours to the bivvy under Ruadh Stac Mor), then 4 3/4 hours to the to Shenavall. The walk in and out an additional 5 3/4 hours, an amazing expedition.

August 24: Felt surprisingly refreshed after a long sleep-a good morning, so I set off for my remaining 3 peaks in the area. I arrived at Inverlael at about 9.30, and had been walking for about 10 minutes when I was given a lift to the end of the track. Excellent. I started on the main route up the glen which was very windy and cold. I headed for Beinn Dearg which was in the cloud and followed the enormous wall and then went through a gap in the wall to the summit, which I reached at about 2pm. I had lunch, then back to the col and then on to Cona Meall, which was also in the cloud, up some rocky ground, then round the lip of the corrie to the summit, which proved to be the last one of the trip. Then back to the col, for the third visit of the day! I descended by the path I had used on the ascent, and the cloud was now very low. I reached the end of the path and was about to enter the forest when I saw the man who had given me a lift up in the morning. He kindly gave me a lift back to the road, and was back at the car at 6.45, and cooked in the daylight, which was a big bonus.



August 25: I looked out of the tent doors and decided it was not a Seana Bhraigh day, my last remaining Munro in the area. I decided that a day away from the mountains would be a good idea, so I hired a bike from the camp site, and cycled to Scoraig up the coast. I was also attracted by the news that they were holding a air which presumably meant FOOD! I eventually arrived there after descending some extremely steep paths-walking would have probably been better-and found the place rather too hippyish for my liking, so I made the return journey after a short stay. I packed up the unfortunately wet tent, and headed south to Aviemore, to find motorcyclists everywhere. Quite a contrast to Badrallach. I managed to get moved out of a room which had two motorcyclists in it, and fortunately had a good night.

August 26: Left at a reasonable time and headed down the A9 for Dalwhinnie. I wrote and posted some postcards, and then called in on DP in Dalnaspidal. There was no sign of his car outside either of the two houses, I then went over to the Lodge, but did not feel that was D's house, called on his neighbour who told me he had gone out. I was just walking back to my car when the man himself drove up. I had an excellent cup of coffee, exchanged chat, then headed south, an uneventful, though long, journey, and was back home at 9.30pm. A good end to an excellent trip.