October 19: The accommodation at Glenfinnan did not work out, so I abandoned the plan to travel up by train, and I travelled up by car on the Sunday instead, after doing some painting in the staircase of my flat on the Saturday. I left my newly decorated flat at 9.10, stopped in Carlisle to do some shopping. I crossed the border at 4.15, it then started raining and continued all the way to Fort William. I thought this was a bit much, but it was positively arid compared to the conditions on the return journey. I spent the night at Calluna, where I found a party of Poles who were proposing to ascend BenNevis without the benefit of map or compass. They were planning on using a Sat Nav (!) to get them to the top. I suggested that this was not very sensible, and that they were not properly equipped for Britain's highest mountain. I hope they decided to alter their plans.
October 20: October 20: Left Fort William at 8.15 on an awful morning, arrived at Mallaig at 9.20. Very strong winds and I was quite concerned to see waves breaking over the walls on the way North. I was hit by an incredibly strong squall just after parking the car. I was assured by the locals this was little more than a breeze, and sure enough the boat sailed on time and I arrived at Inverie at 11.00. I was met by Christine from the Old Byre. I went straight there, got organized then back to the village to find out where the deer stalking was taking place and headed off for Sgurr nan Choinnechean at 1.15 via the Mam Uidhe. Reached the foot of the final ridge to be hit by a heavy shower of rain and hail. By the time I had made the summit it had cleared and I had a good view of Ladhar Bheinn which was in the clear as well. I returned over some very wet ground to the path and was back at 7.
October 21: Up at 7, then at first light, about 8, the day looked terrific, so decided to hear for Sgurr na Ciche. Rang the stalkers, no reply from one, other number was unobtainable, so set off at 8.45. On top of the pass at 11.20. I had a superb view of Sgurr Na Ciche, which looked terrific, felt that things were looking good. Headed for the base of the ridge across a rickety plank bridge and across some boggy flat ground. Had lunch on the start of the ridge when it started to rain and hail. Decided to abandon the expedition and headed to Sourlies for lunch in the dry. Set off at 2, reached the top of the pass at 4.20 in nasty weather, back to the Byre at 7.
October 22: Up at 7. A good morning, so decided to head for Beinn Buidhe. Set off at about 9.00 , walked past Kilchoan, then along the beach to the foot of the ridge. I had to cross a deer fence then slogged up a very steep slope, and eventually reached Loch Bhramisaig at about 11.00. It was very cold and put on a few more layers, then headed SE on to the main ridge, and then reached the first top. The weather then closed in, cloud base down, and very wet, headed for Sgurr nan Gobhar. Crossed some very confusing ground decided to by pass Gabhar, and headed straight for the bealach which led to Beinn Buidhe. At the bealach, I decided to abandon and headed down towards Gleann Meadail. After about 15 minutes I was in clear air, crossed 2 more deer fences, down to the Glen and home. Everything wet when I stripped off, a good job the Byre had an efficient drying room. I felt a bit off colour that evening. I had great trouble getting warm, and I put all my layers on plus the duvet from the bed, and was just warm enough.
October 23: It seemed as if the weather had decided not to mess about with having wet and dry spells and went for the simple approach-rain all day. Awful weather forecast, very strong winds forecast up to about 80 mph in addition to the rain. Decided to head for a low lying hill Ron na Beinne. I set off from the Foundation Office at 11.30, after leaving a route card with them. I am sure they thought I was quite mad. I walked along the road for about an hour, then branched off and climbed on to a broad, flat ridge, then head for the Scottas Burn which I followed on its W Bank to a col, then over a bump and then the final pull on to the summit block, then on to the summit. Fortunately the trig point was quite substantial and so I managed to get some shelter from the amazingly strong wind. Going back by my ascent route was impossible due to the winds so headed down by the North ridge, very steep, which at least meant that I got out of the wind quickly. About halfway down I came across a huge boulder which made a perfect wind break, a good spot for lunch. I then headed for the Sandaig Burn and followed it to the road, but not before I met yet another deer fence, but I was fortunately able to follow it down to the road and then back to village at about 4. A great adventure. I rang Tommy at the Foundation Office to tell him I was back safely but I saw him that evening in the pub anyway.
October 24: Up at 7, packed up, Christine came round and we had a bit of a chat. I left at 9,30 and walked to the village, bought some cards at the Foundation Office and then back to the Pottery Tearoom, where I found out that the afternoon ferry crossing has been cancelled as Force 10 winds had been forecast-I had originally planned on catching it, just as well I had changed my plan. I posted the cards so they had the prized Knoydart postmark, but made a faux pas - the box was being emptied as I posted them, so that they would not go until Monday. never mind. The crossing was pretty rough, especially when we got close to Mallaig, with spray coming over the bows. I did some shopping in Mallaig, then headed towards Glenfinnan. I stopped at the Visitor Centre and had some soup and coffee as I was feeling really cold. I then stopped at the approach to Gulvain and walked for 2k along the path and turned round at Wauchan with tantalising views of the SW summit. I then drove on to Banavie and walked along the Caledonian Canal, the venue for the next venture. A bit dull, very long straight bits with the occasional bend. I turned round after about 45 minutes, and got soaked by another violent lengthy shower just as I had reached the car. I headed off to Spean Bridge, had something to eat, then on to Tulloch Station lodge where I spent the night.
October 25: Raining hard again, with winds gusting up to 120 mph, I was not hat disappointed to be leaving. I left at 9.40, stopped at Dave Pogson’s house at about 10.45, had a long chat, then set off at 11.30, driving quite slowly through the wind and rain, quite intimidating at times as the wind was so strong. The rain eventually stopped just short of Birmingham, and the rest of the journey was quite pleasant, quite a novelty to be able to see out of wing mirrors. I got home at about 11pm.
A great trip.
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